Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 21, 1991 TAG: 9104180295
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-7 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: San Francisco Chronicle
DATELINE: NEW YORK LENGTH: Long
Poorboys and ribbed tights, or all-in-one catsuits, form the foundation for plaid pleated skirts, James Dean black leather motorcycle jackets, over-the-knee boots or booties, and berets. An espionage trench coat is another fall fashion essential.
Evenings will be eclectic, ranging from understated gray flannel styles to avant-garde sunset-colored stretch velvet leggings with built-in boots and second-skin tops. Metallics that shimmer and shine, especially gold tones, will also be strong.
Legs are in the limelight with stirrup pants, leggings, tapered trousers, colored opaque tights or fishnet stockings, and boots.
Generally, American designers have kept hems at the knee or higher, and provide longer looks as alternatives. When pants are worn, they're often lean with oversized tops in luxurious fabrics such as cashmere or chenille. Lively colors and fit-and-flare silhouettes look refreshing. And nothing is more prevalent than plaid.
Now, some show reports:
Design giant Bill Blass handled plaids better than anything else in his line.
The star ensemble of the collection was a gold embroidered plaid jacket worn with forest green, burgundy and black tartan pants.
Also striking was a red and green plaid coat featuring gold embroidered American eagles on the pockets and four shiny gold buttons.
But his presentation also included clothes that looked overworked in many cases.
A series of fussy black lace dresses had unlined box-pleated skirts, which were too revealing. Bi-level skirts looked tricky.
Satin bubble skirts with ruching down the center looked clownish. Colors in Amish-quilt-inspired coats looked dull. And poor-boy tops looked plain worn with evening skirts.
An innovation in Donna Karan's collection was what she calls a "bodydress." This is a matte jersey bodysuit with a hip-slung skirt attached. What looks like three pieces - a turtleneck, tights and short skirt - are really just one.
Other standouts were Karan's reversible double-faced cocoon coats piped in gold, and her short gold trench coats and motorcycle jackets.
Karan's evening wear included siren columns that were gold stretch on one side of the bodice and black wool jersey on the other.
An exciting addition to her repertoire was a capsule collection of men's wear, which won't be for sale until 1992. Gray cashmere hooded sweat shirts and sweat pants, black and white quilted parkas and single-breasted black cashmere overcoats should win her male clients in a hurry.
Carolina Herrera, who often dresses Jaccquline Onassis, presented elegant, clean designs with luxurious touches, but nothing too noisy.
Herrera trimmed steel gray and yellow houndstooth dresses with black velvet at the hem and cuffs. She showed understated olive, pink and white plaid A-line dresses. Muted teal and pink plaid emerged on a long, swashbuckling trench coat.
A stunning sleeveless black velvet cocktail dress with white satin piping drew applause.
Ralph Lauren's super-charged line opened with a collection of functional skiwear so sizzling it might melt the snow. Red, white and navy ski jackets and vests were accented with gold-braid military trim and paired with wool/Spandex ski pants. These ski-patrol fashions would be perfect for a James Bond flick.
Lauren's evening wear, however, was disappointing. Stiff taffeta peplums on cocktail suits and fichu collars looked like '50s-style attic finds, updated with a few Christian Lacroix curves.
Bob Mackie, celebrating Cole Porter's 100th birthday, sent out naughty nuns in habits that included strapless black sequin dance dresses and beaded veils to the tune of "Anything Goes." "Love for Sale" brought satin trench coats over nude illusion lace teddies. "Too Darn Hot" included a series of red cloque, lace, and lacquered chiffon gowns.
Possibly the prettiest number in the show was Mackie's black velvet and nude lace columnar gown. His art deco-inspired embroideries and piano keyboard jackets were other winning looks.
Carolyne Roehm's beauties were her navy for night styles. Understated navy blue wool jersey cocktail dresses featured navy metallic chantilly lace accents. Navy cashmere bodysuits and long silk voile split skirts had surprise bare backs.
The Anne Klein collection by Louis Dell'Olio was filled with unexpected details, too. Try stretch velvet pants with built-in boots.
The show opened with ivory satin trench shirts worn over black stretch velvet turtlenecks and black stretch velvet pant/boots. Hot colors followed, such as a red cashmere zip-front jacket over a pink turtleneck and pink slim skirt.
by CNB