Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: FRIDAY, February 28, 1992 TAG: 9202280354
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: LELIA ALBRECHT
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
EVEN THE TOFU TASTES DELICIOUS
I can't understand. With Chinese restaurants in our area proliferating like grains of rice, how was there one this column could have missed? But more than that - one that could make me like tofu?Hunan East's location does not hint at the goodness within. I must have driven by that simple little gray frame building time after time and never realized it housed a restaurant.
The tofu I can more readily understand: I had never really given it a fair chance. In the hands of the gifted chef at Hunan East, it was no longer the tasteless concoction I have known.
Tofu Hunan Style was one of the seven offerings (in column A) on "Family Dinner" menu from which three hungry people can choose two dishes, plus one dish from column B (for $7.95 per person). Because we were two hungry couples, we ordered two of the Plans A and B and had our table covered end-to-end with dishes and the air around us with tempting, exotic smells.
Feeling adventurous and helped along by the fact I had so many other dishes to fall back on, I tried the Tofu Hunan Style, finding with surprise there was a hint of a rich brown glaze coating it, mercifully taking away that soft tastelessness I'd found disagreeable in other tofu. To gild the lily, there was more of that tasty glaze thinned to make a sauce for the tofu.
For a beginning, there was a choice of hot and sour, egg drop or wonton soups to go with either A or B, but the helpful maitre offered us a "house special soup," which was indeed very special. Cloudy white without a hint of greenery or vegetable to brighten it, nonetheless the soup was far from lacking in character or taste, and it had a rich seafood flavor.
On a previous visit, I discovered General Tso's Chicken ($7.95), which I remember for the amazing airiness of the breading on the sizable chunks of very tender, white chicken. I believe a light crust of sesame seed made the chicken so crisp. At any rate, it was fabulous.
Another time, I ordered the Chi Shai ($8.95), yet another, to me, new preparation and even more deserving of a "wow!"
What really did it with this dish was the distinct bite of a rich ginger sauce. That, and a combination of sliced chicken breast meat and very large (but sadly, very few) shrimp. The crunch of snow peas and water chestnut rounds was a big plus as well.
The destiny of the renowned Chinese gourmet delight, Peking duck, is to be the piece de resistance of the dinner. The Hunan East's Peking duck more than fulfilled that destiny one night for four expectant diners. We'd ordered it ahead, as required, and starved ourselves all day in anticipation. We examined our checkbooks carefully, as well, for one Peking duck at $20 is not to be considered lightly. Upon more consultation with each other and the maitre, we decided one was not enough and ordered two, closing our eyes against a frugal future.
The feast was worth robbing banks for. The ritual of serving Peking Duck is stylish and unwavering: the removal of the crisp glazed skin is first, gracefully accomplished with knife and fork by the maitre. It then is wrapped in a thin pancake with a sprig of green scallion leaf and a neat slather of Hunan's own luscious hoisin sauce, and removed to a small plate. The carving of the delicate breast meat, its careful placement on another small plate, is neat - the gliding slices of brown leg meat drop onto the ones before. And so on, until the tiny naked carcass is cleanly exposed. Then the ritual begins again.
After the deep, rich brown essence is carefully coralled and spooned onto each breast slice and the small plates in front of us at last, there is silence as we taste, then delighted moans as each rich bite is savored.
Hunan East also deserves kudos for the gentle treatment of its sliced and slivered vegetables, the carrots, celery, snow peas and in several dishes, cauliflowerettes, each of which needs and gets the kind of attention required to keep them crisply undercooked. Even the fried wontons in small bowls on all tables as a before-dinner nibble are appetizingly crisp. More welcome, they're not at all greasy and, surprisingly, the oil they're fried in tastes fresh.
Equally incredible, especially in view of all the clumpy rice forced on diners in some restaurants, is Hunan East's rice - perfectly cooked, each tiny grain resting separate and independent in its rounded little serving.
Oh, come on, you cry, these are unimportant little details. No way. For a deadly dedicated diner, they're all-important.
Hunan East is a comfortable, easy place, with booths and, at dinner, white-clothed tables. But don't head back to that nice, secluded round booth. That's mine, and I just may be in it.
HUNAN EAST\ 1000 Hardy Road Vinton 345-8888\ \ HOURS: Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.\ \ BEVERAGES: Soft drinks, coffee, tea, beer, sake.\ \ PRICE RANGE: $7.95-$20.95\ \ CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard, American Express.\ \ RESERVATIONS? No\ \ NON-SMOKING SECTION? Yes
\ Lelia Albrecht, lived in Paris seven years, dining, cooking and writing on Western Europe for The New York Times, The Washington Post and numerous magazines.