Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: THURSDAY, March 12, 1992 TAG: 9203110244
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-6 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
SOURCE: Joe Hunnings
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
If done properly, however, a woody plant can be relocated successfully. The option should be considered if the plant is very valuable or needs to be moved anyway.
Before digging, select the new site carefully. Consider where the plant will look good and where its needs will be met. Think about the plant's ability to adapt to the sun, shade, wind and soil moisture in the new location. Also, check on its ultimate size to avoid crowding.
Deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved in the spring after the worst of winter weather has passed, but before the buds begin to grow. Evergreens can be transplanted later in the spring than deciduous plants, if the weather is not too severe and extra care is given to shading and watering.
Smaller plants will be physically easier to move. The smaller the plant, the greater the probability of success.
If time is not crucial to the move, one method of increasing successful transplanting is root pruning. Six months to a year before transplanting, use a sharp spade to cut roots to the depth of the spade while leaving the plant in place.
Cut the roots in a circle slightly less than one foot in radius for each inch in diameter of the trunk. New roots will sprout at the ends of the cut roots, providing many feeder roots to help the plant get established.
Plants that are root-pruned in the spring can be moved in the fall after they become dormant. When digging the plant to move it, dig slightly outside the original cut so the feeder roots will not be damaged.
If possible, prepare the new site before digging out the plant. Dig a hole the height of the plant roots and twice as wide as the root ball.
If weight is a factor, many deciduous trees or shrubs can be moved bare-rooted, if care is taken to avoid injuring the roots.
In most soils, this is a difficult process and greater success can be insured by digging a root ball. This is particularly critical on large trees and trees such as dogwood and magnolia that are hard to move.
All evergreens require a root ball.
The size of the root ball varies with the plant, but normally a root ball of one foot in radius to each inch of trunk diameter is recommended.
To keep the root ball intact, make the initial cuts with the back of the spade toward the tree. Dig a trench around the plant to a depth equal to the diameter of the ball being formed. Round off the ball and wrap it securely in burlap before undercutting and freeing the ball of soil from the ground.
A root ball is surprisingly heavy. Care must be used in handling it to avoid breaking the trunk and main roots free from the soil. Never try to lift by the tree trunk or branches; always handle the soil ball itself.
Replant the tree or shrub as soon as possible. Do not allow the roots to dry out or be exposed to heavy freezes while the plant is out of the ground.
Stake tall specimens for a few months until newly formed roots anchor the plant. Maintain adequate moisture, but do not overwater. Check soil moisture to a depth of six to eight inches near the plant periodically over the next year to aid in re-establishment.
Because moving a tree or shrub requires such effort, consider buying a nursery-grown plant for the site. If you choose to move an established plant, pay close attention to transplanting details to increase the chance of success.
Joe Hunnings is the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service agent for agriculture in Christiansburg. If you have questions call the Montgomery County extension office at 382-5790.
by CNB