Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, August 1, 1993 TAG: 9309080412
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
I traveled more than 500 miles scouting for hospitality along the highways curling through some of the mountains surrounding the Roanoke Valley. I ogled at breathtakingly gorgeous scenery, and with an unhurried fork-to-mouth motion, ingested an untold number of memorable meals.
Virginia hospitality and real down-home cooking reign supreme in the legions of family owned restaurants, mini-marts and food quickettes nestled along the major mountain arteries and looped throughout the back country on narrow winding roads. (In Europe this would be called ``the provinces.'')
No one ever has to search far and wide for food in Virginia. There's an abundant variety at virtually every curve of the road and always lots of friendly conversation to go with it.
Enjoy a head-clearing walk on the Blue Ridge Parkway, along the 4-mile loop while inhaling the beauty of three surrounding mountains: Roanoke, Yellow and Buck. Then come down to earth on Route 220 north and stop at the newly established BUCK MOUNTAIN GRILLE in the old Parkway Restaurant just to experience Doug Robison's delectable dinners.
A few miles south on 220 and across from the firehouse, there's MOUNTAIN VIEW MARKET, the place for everything you'll need for a day in the hills. Several miles down the highway brings you to KINGREY BROTHERS MARKET, which is unique for many reasons but most especially because it houses a bona fide butcher shop known for its excellent homemade sausage.
After a day among the animals and wildflowers at Mill Mountain Zoo, follow the road down to Towers Mall and satisfy everyone's hunger pangs at the popular K & W CAFETERIA or with the well-prepared vegetarian fare at WILDFLOUR CAFE.
\ One of the prettiest drives in the world begins as U.S. 221 south winds its way over Bent Mountain into Floyd. Take a look at the long distance views of Poor Mountain and Fort Lewis Mountain to the west.
On those days when you can see forever, look faraway to the east for Peaks of Otter and then at the two mountains officially named Reed Mountain but affectionately dubbed ``Lana Turner Mountain'' by the locals.
All along this road, a parade of general store mini-markets and small eateries beckon. There's the DRAFT HOUSE whose following comes for miles just to get pizzas, then VAUGHAN'S COUNTRY STORE, with a reputation for its many- layered Dagwood sandwiches, followed by GRANMOTHER'S KITCHEN where I recommend the cheeseburgers.
Select luscious fruits and vegetables spilling from baskets and grown in this wonderfully fertile area at BENT MOUNTAIN FRUIT MARKET, WALTER'S or FRALIN'S produce stands.
As you follow the curvy road, with glances at the mile after mile of exquisite, dark green forest-cloaked mountains and emerald pastures, BILL'S QUICK STOP and BM COUNTRY STORE welcome you to stop for supplies and cold drinks.
All of a sudden, you'll find yourself in picturesque, quaint Copper Hill. Down the road, depend on SMITH'S GROCERY or RAYE JANNEY GROCERIES in Check for refreshment and information. Before you know it, you're on the outskirts of Floyd. Amid the shade of lacy trees, PINE TAVERN INN offers a surprising variety of delicious, seasonally attuned meals for lunch and dinner from Wednesday through Saturday.
Just before you hit the center of Floyd at the light, have some '50s reminisces with the burgers and fries at BOWER'S CURB SERVICE & DRIVE-IN. On any day of the week, park the car and walk to BLUE RIDGE RESTAURANT where traditional, from-scratch Virginia-style cooking keeps the place packed.
Cross the street at the light and head for the sign that tells you its DONNA'S KITCHEN. I guarantee you'll like the fresh, wholesome breakfast and lunch preparations every day but Saturday, the day she takes a break.
Take Virginia 8 south and head higher into the mountains. You don't need a thermometer to tell you the air is cooler and crisper. Magnificent scenery extends across tree-slathered mountain ranges wearing crowns of wispy clouds.
Signs leading to the Blue Ridge Parkway are frequent, but don't get on just yet. Drive under the stone overpass to cozy TUGGLES GAP RESTAURANT where down- home cooking sets the standard and frosty goblets filled with the classy wines from nearby Chateau Morrisette or fragrant ice tea make perfect accompanying beverages.
\ For tranquil pastoral scenery, take Electric Road to Virginia 311 north and follow the curves over Catawba Mountain to the valley below. Before hitting the mountain at the crossroads junction, visit Orange Market and Hanging Rock Market. Such a crowd of cars surround these places that they both look for all the world like everybody's favorite hangouts.
Along the curvy drive, signs indicate numerous opportunities for parking the car and hiking portions of the Appalachian Trail. It's an idea worth considering because you'll need an appetite for the matchless giant cheeseburgers awaiting you in New Castle at BRIZ'S, THE BREAD BASKET, BUSY BEE and PINE TOP RESTAURANT.
As the sun is setting and the moon starts its rise, continue your journey on this peaceful highway through tranquil towns, such as the lyrically named Sweet Spring. Just four miles this side of the state line is Eagle's Nest Restaurant, where superb ``country gourmet'' meals are the rule. Go home happy after enjoying their marvelous marinated Black Gold sirloin steak and their special dessert of homemade bread pudding with whiskey sauce.
\ If you're on Orange Avenue, head west for imposing Fort Lewis Mountain. You'll pass through Salem where yeasty aromas from the SUN FLOUR BAKE SHOP fill the air. You'll notice the landscape gradually shifting from bustling city to spacious, cool green country fields.
At GLENVAR MINI-MARKET and RIVERSIDE QUICK-ETTE pick up what you'll need for enjoying a quiet picnic at the Roanoke River Wayside.
Continue west and go out of your way to get to North Fork Road in Ironto. What was once an ordinary-looking garage is now MOUNTAIN VIEW MARKET & ITALIAN KITCHEN. It's where some of the best pizza and Italian food are served for miles around. You won't regret the detour.
Continue on 460 to Elliston for the inviting roadfood at WILSON'S. I've enjoyed the fried jalapenos with cheddar, plus macaroni and cheese and the all- vegetable plate.
A few miles away, arrive at Shawsville, home of HALE'S, a roadside restaurant famous for its spaghetti, chopped sirloin, biscuits and gooey macaroni and cheese. Don't miss DRY CREEK MARKET and MIDWAY MARKET, either for convenience items and great conversation.
Go all the way into Christiansburg and head for the '5Os-style curb service and tasty, tender chopped barbecue with red sauce at DUDE'S. It's a local favorite that's not to be missed.
\ For gastronomic adventure, consider a drive on I-81 north with a turn off at Fincastle where U.S. 220 north takes you over Tinker Mountain. Wander in and among the ribbon roads, past agreeable-looking farms with miles of white fences holding in herds of lazy cows, beyond Ikenberry's and Layman's orchards to DEE'S SANDWICH SHOP, in the heart of downtown, for homemade cookies and iced tea.
Back on 220, you can't afford to miss BILL'S SEAFOOD SHOPPE AND RAW BAR for perfectly fried clam strips, crab cakes and a broiled seafood platter. It doesn't come better in these landlocked parts.
If you're aching for fried bologna sandwiches with lettuce and tomato head for FINCASTLE RESTAURANT where two women thrive on putting out more food in less time than anywhere else I've been.
Heading up the road, signs tell you Clifton Forge is about 30 miles away. With scenery that reminds you of postcard pictures, the ride there is brief. After maneuvering one way turns on Main Street, find MICHEL'S a deliberately laid-back gastronomic oasis with a wine list that's a tasting tour. The food is amazingly delicious and prices, utterly reasonable.
\ NOTE: My gratitude to Don Draper and Robert Trickle of the Virginia Transportation Department for taking the time to share ideas and provide me with an invaluable map for my excursions over unfamiliar terrain. My thanks to Hugh Meagher whose knowledge of local lore, geography and history happily fortified my expeditions.
\ Dolores Kostelni reviews restaurants for this newspaper.
\ For more about what our mountains have to offer, see today's special section, "Discover: Your Guide to the Roanoke Valley."
by CNB