ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SATURDAY, March 19, 1994                   TAG: 9403210163
SECTION: CURRENT                    PAGE: NRV-3   EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY 
SOURCE: By JOANNE ANDERSON STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: RADFORD                                LENGTH: Long


OLD ALLEGHANY'S NEW LIFE: FOOD WITH A VIEW|

At the Alleghany Cafe, you can have Alleghany hot wings smothered in Alleghany secret sauce while relaxing between turn-of-the-century brick walls downstairs, or under rustic pine beams and modern skylights upstairs. You can even sit out on the roof and check out the goings-on in the street below.

The restaurant, opened last September by Radford entrepreneur Jeff Jarvis, was more than a year in the making. Jarvis bought the building in the spring of 1992 and began the arduous task of renovation.

The space was originally a saloon annex to the old Alleghany Hotel. From saloon to soda shop, to pool hall, then bookstore, the building had as many owners as layers of floors and wallcoverings.

The mosaic tile floor was an unexpected find, but the big surprise was a red, white and blue hand-painted mural, about 15 feet by 20 feet, on the west wall promoting "B. C. NECTAR, THE DRINK OF THE GODS, AT FOUNTAINS AND IN BOTTLES."

The first floor now sports a bar from the former Blue Muse in Roanoke, two television sets and 44 seats between bar stools and tables. Copper ceilings around skylights and marquee-style lights add an interesting contrast to the dark brown original tin ceiling.

The second floor was added and has a contemporary flair and a solid mahogany bar from South Africa. There are 80 seats upstairs, and the area may be reserved for private banquets.

Thinking that rooftop dining "would be neat," Jarvis designed a deck for 66 more diners who overlook Main Street and part of Radford University from five levels. "There's no place like it in the area," he said. And "eating outside in the fresh air is like a picnic atmosphere."

Foods is prepared under the watchful eye of chef Judd Flynn, New England Culinary Institute graduate and recipient of several culinary awards. Jarvis also participated in designing the menu and "he's a good cook, too," waiter Will deRosset said.

Eggs Benedict is one of the most popular breakfast entrees, but patrons will find pancakes, omelets, eggs any style, country ham and red-eye gravy, and charcoal grilled rib-eye steak. On the lighter side, muffins baked on the premises, toasted bagels, English muffins or biscuits, fruit cup, even tomato slices, complement the morning menu.

If you arrive after 11 a.m., you'll be welcomed for lunch and any number of special salads and sandwiches. Chicken fajita salad comes in a flour tortilla, while hot roast beef on toast points is covered with mushroom gravy. Steak and cheese, roast turkey and grilled quesadilla with smoked chicken share menu space with burgers, subs and clubs. Sandwiches are available in six- or 12-inch versions.

Dinner service starts at 5 p.m. Alleghany hot wings, which are hot in flavor and temperature, are just one of the appetizers. Nachos, potato skins, stuffed jalapenos, fried mushrooms and homemade potato chips are a few others.

Salads include house, grilled chicken, chef, spinach or taco. Soup options are the special she-crab soup; bacon, cheese and potato soup; and a soup of the day.

Marinated lemon chicken, a house special, is served on Caribbean salsa, an unusual bed of fruit and peppers. Other entrees include prime rib, chef's seafood specials, vegetarian dishes, lasagna and spaghetti, and baby back ribs with that famous Alleghany secret sauce.

A For the Kids menu section lists children's choices, 99 cents to $1.50.

Desserts, such as white chocolate cheesecake and Grand Marnier chocolate cake, are displayed on a tray at your table. They are created by chef Flynn, who has also won awards for his pastries.

Jarvis, 31, came to Radford in 1981 and received a degree in nursing four years later. "I was going into anesthesiology, but I got a little sidetracked," he said. He also owns Central Market and Deli on Fairfax Street and Jarvis Real Estate, which primarily handles rental property. Until opening the Alleghany Cafe, he operated a pizza delivery business for four years.

But opening a restaurant was on his mind, and Jarvis looked at opportunities in Alexandria; Knoxville, Tenn.; and other places before settling on Radford. He compensates for limited restaurant experience by "hiring the good personnel with experience, like Judd Flynn and general manager Wayne Frank, and using a lot of common sense."

Flynn was previously at Maxwell's in Blacksburg, and Frank worked as a general manager for many years for Western Sizzlin' and Macado's. Many of the staff, such as waiter deRosset, worked for Jarvis before the restaurant opened, helping with construction, sanding and staining tables and doing any other jobs needed.

Comment cards are propped up on the tables between the fresh flowers and salt and pepper shakers. Each comment card is posted on the staff bulletin board, said Jarvis. "We'll do whatever we can to respond to customer suggestions."

Alleghany Cafe

1009 Norwood St., Radford

639-6072

Open daily, 7 a.m.-1:30 a.m.

Breakfast: $2.50-$6.75

Lunch: $3.50-$6.50

Dinner: $5.95-$16.50

Superlatives: Food quality, cheerful servers.



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