ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, May 14, 1995                   TAG: 9505150080
SECTION: CURRENT                    PAGE: NRV18   EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY 
SOURCE: JOANNE ANDERSON STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: MOUNTAIN LAKE                                 LENGTH: Medium


MOUNTAIN LAKE A BRIGHT SPOT, EVEN ON A DARK, WET NIGHT

To use that most famous cliche: "It was a dark and stormy night" on May 1 when Mountain Lake Hotel reopened following its first winter closing in nine years.

The temperature was in the low 40s with sporadic rain, and a misty fog enveloped the resort. Perhaps it was this dismal weather that made the dining room feel extra warm and friendly.

Certainly there was the emotional element of coming back to a landmark as it returns to life.

"The winters are just too unpredictable," said Buzz Scanland, general manager. "It seems like our season is going to be May through October and perhaps the first two weekends in November."

Going up for dinner, even on a very wet spring evening, is an enchanting experience. Candles and linens accent each table, and despite the largness of the dining room, there's an intimate ambiance.

There's also some fine service. Joshua Allen, an out-of-class student, was transformed that evening from solo waiter to super waiter.

Because the first night of the season was a Monday, not too many people were expected. As dinner guests arrived, hostess and long-time Blacksburg resident Ruth Lytton greeted and seated them.

Allen went into action until he was serving eight tables. About the only thing that changed about him was the pace of his step, which got faster and faster. But he didn't seem the least bit ruffled. Lytton backed him up pouring ice water, and trainee Sean Mury kept the sodas refilled.

James Porter, sous-chef for the past two and a half years, has returned as executive chef.

A five-to-six-item dinner menu is planned, although there were just three that first night: rib-eye steak, stir-fried cajun chicken served over rice and poached salmon with a tomato tarragon butter sauce. The evening selections will always include a beef, poultry, fish and vegetarian entree with one or two chef specials. Dinner started with shrimp bisque - a hot, creamy and flavorful soup with tidbits of fresh shrimp. White rolls made from scratch and a fresh salad with three lettuce varieties, red cabbage and sweet onions followed the soup.

"We will be offering a spring mix of seven lettuce varieties in our dinner salads as soon as we can get it," said Porter.

The entrees included a hot baked potato and a spot of fruit garnish. The desserts, which change daily, were not heavy in consistency or taste and complemented a full meal perfectly.

"Lemon berry jazz" is a lemon chiffon pie with a thin layer of berries between layers and drizzled on top. The "chocolate nemesis" is a semi-sweet chocolate pie with a whipped-cream topping.

Dinners are $19.95 per person every day of week and include the entire meal from soup to dessert, soft drinks, coffee and tea.

The lunch menu is different and highlights a house soup which will change with the seasons, appetizers, several salads and a stuffed tomato, sandwiches, burgers and lunch entrees. A selection of light meals also is being introduced.

The dining room is open to the public for breakfast and, like dinner, is one price for appetizer, juice, full breakfast platter, coffee and tea. When more than 100 people are expected, a full breakfast buffet is set with custom omelet and waffle stations.

Of course, the resort is renowned for its Sunday brunch buffet, back again this year at $13.95 per person.

Eating at Mountain Lake is always of interest, but there's a lot to do between meals. In addition to the well-known lake activities, hiking trails and family events, fly fishing and watercolor painting classes are being offered this summer.

The fishing program includes three-day, two-night beginner weekends; single-day introductory classes; and guided stream excursions.

Victoria Jordan Stone, the 1994-95 artist-in-residence, will give nature drawing and watercolor classes for adults and youth ages 11-16.

In any event, don't let the weather interfere with plans for dining at Mountain Lake. It's still a charming place regardless of Mother Nature's mood.



 by CNB