ROANOKE TIMES 
                      Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times

DATE: Wednesday, July 31, 1996               TAG: 9607310009
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 8    EDITION: METRO 
COLUMN: The Wine List
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN


TREAT YOUR PALATE TO A TASTING TOUR OF AREA WINERIES

If you are seeking summer day trips, with or without the kids, consider a tasting tour of some of Virginia's 47 wineries. Although many of our state's wineries are located around central and Northern Virginia, we do have a handful within comfortable, round-trip driving distance.

The Virginia Wine Marketing Program produces an excellent guide to Virginia wineries that is available through most wine shops and the Roanoke Visitors Center. The 1996 Virginia Wineries Tour Guide provides clear maps of the wine regions and directions to each winery. Festival schedules for each winery also are listed month by month, so you can plan around special events.

If you use the guide, make sure to take advantage of the passport program, getting a stamp from at least 10 Virginia wineries to receive Virginia wine prizes from the Wine Marketing Office. Details are in the brochure.

When departing for a wine tour, my family packs plenty of snacks for the kids and bread and cheese - to stave off hunger and to slow the absorption of alcohol into the adults' systems. In warmer months we also take lots of cold water and other drinks, since wine is not exactly a thirst quencher.

Many of the wineries have ideal locations for a relaxing picnic, so you may also want to pack a lunch to enjoy.

Consider assigning a designated driver for the tour if you plan to stop at several wineries, or plan to taste and spit the samples instead of swallowing. This sounds gross, but it is perfectly acceptable. The wineries see it all the time and have separate bowls to handle it - just ask.

This month's tour features Southwest Virginia's Chateau Morrisette Winery, a destination in itself. Take a leisurely drive down the Blue Ridge Parkway to mile post 171.5, turning west on Virginia 726 and following the signs to the winery.

Chateau Morrisette offers informative tours for all ages. Tour guides point out that kids often ask the most thought-provoking questions, so take them along if you think they'd be interested. If not, there's plenty of room for them to play outside by the flower gardens or in the meadow where the monthly Black Dog Jazz Concerts are held.

Chateau Morrisette is a beautifully designed winery with a gift shop full of everything from grape-motif socks to picnic supplies to wine gifts and, of course, Chateau Morrisette wines. Winemaker Bob Burgin makes a bevy of sweet blended wines including Sweet Mountain Laurel, Red Mountain Laurel, The Black Dog, Black Dog Blanc and a Virginia Blush. He also makes a chardonnay from North Carolina grapes and a pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and vidal blanc.

Tastings are conducted regularly in the spacious tasting room, where visitors gather around a large bar to sip each of Chateau Morrisette's wines. The wine tasting costs $1 per person and is fun for novices but not meant for serious tasters. I was one of a dozen visitors gathered around the hostess who rushed us through a quick tasting of 11 wines, with brief descriptions of each. Save your questions for the tour, because the tasting hostess seemed a bit irritated when slowed down to answer questions about the particular wines.

There are several picnic tables in the meadow if you packed a lunch. The winery will uncork your purchased wines for you if you would like to serve them with your picnic.

If you'd rather avoid the picnic ants, you might prefer to dine at Chateau Morrisette's restaurant, Le Chien Noir. During summer months, seating is also available on the back deck, which might be more child-friendly.

Lunch is served Wednesday through Sunday with entrees costing from $6.95 for a portabella sandwich with honey mustard, sprouts, grilled onion and spinach, to $10. 95 for cioppino - poached fish, shrimp, scallops and mussels in a spicy tomato-saffron broth. Reservations are recommended for dinner, which is served Friday and Saturday evenings and includes such offerings as sauteed beef tenderloin with poached oysters, okra, crawfish and marinara on a grilled polenta triangle for $19.50 and lobster enchilada with black bean-ancho chile sauce, avocado salsa and grilled vegetables for $18.50. Unadventurous diners, be warned, you won't find any standard steaks, chops or chicken among Chef Mark Freedman's eclectic fare.

While you're in the area, you may want to tour nearby Mabry Mill to learn the history of the historic grist mill and its operations. It is a beautiful place to wander. Mabry Mill also has a restaurant, which features grilled cheese sandwiches, burgers and Campbell's brand soups.

On Aug. 7, the wine tours will take a loop through Amherst and Nelson and Rockbridge Counties. Until then, Cheers!

Chateau Morrisette recommended wines:

Chardonnay, 1994 - A lighter style chardonnay with clean fruit flavors and gentle oak; good for sipping. $11 at the winery

Vidal blanc, 1993 - Crisp pineapple fruit and just enough residual sugar to give it a touch of sweetness; great picnic wine. $7.50 at the winery

Our Dog Blue, nonvintage - Chateau Morrisette's newest creation offers a nice blend of Riesling and Seyval Blanc in an off-dry style. $9 at the winery

THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is a local wine wholesaler as well as founder of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets on the fourth Thursday of each month. If you have a wine-related question, or would like more information on the society, call 992-3285.


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by CNB