The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, October 13, 1994             TAG: 9410130053
SECTION: DAILY BREAK              PAGE: E6   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: BY MONIQUE WILLIAMS, SPECIAL TO THE DAILY BREAK 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   65 lines

SUBTLE INNOVATIONS MARK MENSWEAR

WHEN A FRENCHMAN coined the phrase ``the more things change, the more they remain the same,'' he may have been thinking about men's fashions.

Change in menswear isn't so much about re-inventing oneself with each season as it is about adding and subtracting.

``This season isn't a departure of traditionalism in clothing,'' says Craig Beecroft of Beecroft and Bull in Virginia Beach. ``It's more of a re-interpretation of classics.''

In the tailored category, the most exciting news this season is the introduction of the three-button suit.

``In the world of suits,'' says Jack Herschlag, director of the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers, ``a little bit of change goes a long way.''

``The difference between a two-button and three-button single-breasted model, for example, can be dramatic, with the three-button style presenting a leaner, longer silhouette and raising the eye focus to the wearer's face.''

``If I were to update a winter wardrobe,'' says Bill Abdalla of Marc Lance in Virginia Beach, ``I would add a three-button suit.''

The vest is the hot accessory that will instantly update any wardrobe.

Instead of the trendy showy pieces of last season, this season offers vests that are elegant accessories and not novelty items.

``Vests are very prominent,'' adds Abdalla. ``They are starting to catch on in this area.''

``They are important because they add another dimension to a wardrobe and because they can dress up an outfit or be worn casually.''

Colors this season mimic nature with earth tones such as rust, olive and deep tobacco dominating the market.

Innovation comes in choices of fabrics. ``Excitement this season is in textured goods and color,'' Abdalla says.

Part of this trend are knits that offer bulk and texture, including velvet, corduroy, tweed, nubby wovens, shearling and spongy knits.

Beyond suits, menswear has evolved to include an even more important category that has been dubbed Fridaywear.

``People are paying more attention to dressy casuals,'' says Abdalla of Marc Lance. ``They don't want to wear a suit and a tie after hours.''

And manufacturers are paying attention. This sportswear category is where a man can indeed show his personality by mixing and matching pieces that allow for greater creativity.

``I'd be looking at layering,'' says Beecroft, ``dressing casual but still sophisticated.''

Beecroft recommends wearing a great sport coat with a cashmere sweater, a mock turtle or a polo shirt in a soft merino wool.

Jackets and pants are softly constructed, allowing greater ease of movement for a more relaxed attitude.

``More than changing a personality'' says Beecroft, ``great clothing should be an extension of someone's personality.'' ILLUSTRATION: The three-button coat and knit vests are signs of the times in

menswear fashions.

Texture and comfort are afforded by tweed vest, polo shirt and

corduroy pants.

by CNB