THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, March 2, 1995 TAG: 9503010045
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F3 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: A LA CARTE
SOURCE: Donna Reiss
LENGTH: Medium: 68 lines
MANY LOCALS LIKELY were saddened by the 1994 closing of Isle of Capri, which, since the 1950s, had offered Italian food a few steps from the Oceanfront at 313 Laskin Road.
Gone too is neighboring Pascal's, where top-40 bands played.
But by late April, the space is scheduled to come back to life, when the California Cafe opens. Look for an angled 22-seat bar, open kitchen, and colors of teal, pink and black.
Chef Scott Bernheisel, who was executive chef at the Marriott in downtown Norfolk, plans a menu of inexpensive light dishes made to order, all under $10.
``Freestanding lasagna'' will be built on the spot, from pasta sheets and fresh ingredients. Caesar salad will have romaine leaves grilled and chilled. By summer, the adjacent space will have a new dance club. Call 422-5588.
More at Mahi Mah's
Although the name of Mahi Mah's hooks diners with the promise of fresh fish, the menu at this smart, spacious eatery is one of the most diverse at the Oceanfront.
Not surprisingly, the seafood selection is impressive. In a clubby casual setting, a sushi chef prepares hand rolls and maki, as well as fish and rice; behind the long bar is an extensive selection of microbrews and wines.
And new for 1995 is a special promotion of lean generation pork from Smithfield. Bred to be 70 percent leaner than traditional pork, this meat benefits from creative recipes designed by local chefs.
Executive chef Chuck Sass bastes baby-back ribs with a tasty mystery sauce and stuffs pork loin with spinach and goat cheese. Pork chops are glamorized with caramelized apples, red cabbage, fennel and caraway.
Mahi Mah's is at the Ramada on the Beach, at Sixth Street and Atlantic Avenue. Reservations are recommended on weekends; call 491-1555.
Four Diamonds to Le Chambord
Le Chambord has won four diamonds from the American Automobile Association for the third consecutive year, in recognition of ``a skilled, professional service staff, high level of hospitality and upscale facilities.''
Alain Jacqmin oversees the kitchen at this elegant, fine-dining restaurant owned by Frank and Louisa Spapen.
Adjacent to Le Chambord, at 324 N. Great Neck Road in Virginia Beach, the casual Bistro and Rotisserie has added several certified Angus beef items to the menu. Prices range from $13 to $20.
Talented Jonathan Keegan, whose cooking skills initiated the Bistro, is turning over his saute pans to Alvin Williams, who has worked by the chef's side for the past year and a half at Le Chambord and at the Bistro. Born in Leeds and trained in London, Williams brings a European vision to his adopted home.
Meanwhile, Keegan is turning entrepreneur, curing salmon for local restaurants. For reservations at the Bistro, call 486-3636; for Le Chambord, call 498-1234.
A break from meat
You don't have to be a vegetarian to enjoy the meatless meals at the recently opened Terra Bella, at the Oceanfront. The menu includes potato croquettes, noodle soups, vegetable curries and seafood dishes.
Partners Regina Hawk and Shigeru Kanai combine local and Asian culinary experiences. She used to be a partner at Pungo Grill in Virginia Beach; he cooked for a Buddhist temple in Japan.
The mood is serene at Terra Bella, 1102 Atlantic Ave. Call 437-1344. by CNB