The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, March 12, 1995                 TAG: 9503110031
SECTION: HOME                     PAGE: G19  EDITION: FINAL 
SERIES: WEEDER'S DIGEST
SOURCE: BY ROBERT STIFFLER, GARDENING COLUMNIST 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   66 lines

SOME HOUSEPLANTS SURVIVE EVEN A BEGINNER'S ABUSE

MOST FOLKS with houseplants would like to throw them out about twice a year when they begin looking ratty. I'm suspicious that some are bred to become obsolete, so we will throw them out and buy new ones.

Edmund Moulin, director of horticulture at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, has this to say to ease your conscience: ``Hardy species of houseplants will survive almost anywhere and are a good choice for timid beginners who don't have a lot of sunny windows.''

Here's his list:

Aspidistra (cast-iron plant). A Victorian favorite, known as the spittoon plant, it has survived the implied indignity in many a tavern.

Rubber plant. Likes a dim, cool interior (like a hallway). If given sun, it grows like crazy.

Century (kentia) palm. A long-lived, slow-growing plant that needs uniform moisture. Give it an occasional shower.

Philodendron. Likes medium to low light and even moisture but will tolerate dryness and poor light.

Dumb Cane. Tolerates a dry interior and low light but responds to better conditions. Don't let your pet chew the foliage or its tongue will swell.

Bromeliads. Exotic and slow-growing, they like frequent misting but are practically immune to neglect and will flower even in subdued light.

Corn plant (dracaena). Good for hot, dry apartments.

Snake plant. Will survive almost anything.

Spider plant. A tough, low-light plant that makes a great trailer for a hanging basket and endures neglect.

Nephthytis. Will flourish in poor light and survive the forgetful waterer.

Bob Keiter, greenhouse buyer for the large Waterloo Gardens complex in the Philadelphia-Wilmington area, has this to say about houseplant care:

``Basically all houseplants need to be watered only when the soil looks and feels dry to the touch, but before the plant begins to wilt. When you are sure your plant is ready to be watered, flood the surface of the pot with warm water. You should add enough water at the surface so when you are done, one-quarter to one-half the saucer depth is filled with water. Be sure to remove any excess water the plant has not drunk up from the saucer later in the day, so it does not drown.

``If a plant remains unhealthy, the last resort is to remove it from the pot. If it has been underwatered, the roots will look good and only the foliage will be suffering. If a plant has been overwatered, the roots will be rotting and the foliage will be suffering as well. I personally have been amazed at how bad the root system of a plant can be and yet the top looks reasonably good. Always treat your plants as individuals even though they may seemingly look like twins,'' concluded Keiter.

A sure-fire way to water your plants is put them in a sink or bathtub and pour warm water over them. Let the plants sit there overnight and drain and then put them back in their usual locations. ILLUSTRATION: Photo

ROBERT STIFFLER

Laura Viar of McDonald Garden Center in Virginia Beach holds a

``Moonlight'' philodendron. It has large, chartreuse leaves but

remains a small plant. It likes medium to low light.

by CNB