THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 26, 1996 TAG: 9605240227
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 10 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY LANE DEGREGORY
STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: DUCK LENGTH: 122 lines
IN AN ANTIQUE cottage that formerly housed surf clothing and souvenirs, one of the most simplistic, enjoyable eateries on the Outer Banks now offers lunch and dinner entrees to please any palate.
Roadside Raw Bar & Grille opened about a year ago in a 1932 house on the eastern edge of N.C. 12. The exterior is quaint and inviting, with a wide porch wrapping around the front and north sides of the small structure. Owner Mark Copeland refurbished the interior himself, hanging light wooden paneling along lower level walls, installing three high-backed booths across from the long bar and building open shelves above the rear end of the restaurant to stack checkered Williamsburg blue and white china atop.
Only 36 seats comprise this cozy cafe. But the downstairs dining room where my husband and I ate dinner last week seemed airy, open and - at the same time - intimate. White ceiling fans spun above the bare, slate blue tabletops. A gas fireplace, for cooler evenings, hugged a rear wall. Hanging plants draped across every corner. A tropical colored kite, fish mobile and even a surfboard added splashes of color and a beach motif. Tiny white candles flickered in the low light.
We began our meal by perusing the internationally influenced wine and beer list. Spirits from Chile, Italy, France, Argentina and France were among the dozens of selections. My husband chose a Cooper's Extra Stout - bottled black beer from Australia ($3), which he said was ``rich and smooth with little after-taste.''
Appetizers on the one-page menu included an array of raw and steamed seafood; mixed green salads adorned with smoked salmon, fresh fruit, seasoned green beans, duck, scallops or poached chicken; and a shrimp kebab served over garden wild rice. We selected cups of the soup of the day specials ($2.95 each). They were entirely different in taste - but equally exquisite in composition.
The New England clam chowder had a light cream stock loaded with whole clams and potato chunks. Fresh thyme, dill, basil, bay and marjoram masked any fishy taste and added a savory splash of flavors. Filling and rich, it was a delicious overture to the symphony of seasonings yet to come.
I ordered lemon grass chicken soup, a tempting Thai-like creation combining unusual offerings from all sorts of Oriental influences. Water chestnuts, chunks of chicken and celery slivers swam in a light lemon grass-scented broth infused with white rice. Pickled ginger gave the soup zest while Chinese crushed red pepper added a hint of hot to the otherwise mild stock.
``I don't like to confuse tastes that much,'' said Head Chef Michael Gibson, who, with Sous Chef Matt Allison, revised Roadside's entire menu for this summer season. ``I try to keep food I prepare as light as possible. But I use any influences I can - from Asian to Cajun to Caribbean and even old South classic creations. We use local seafood and produce whenever possible. And we highlight specific ingredients and herbs while keeping the overall combinations simple.''
The recipe works. All of Gibson's entrees include interesting, flavorful nuances without any overwhelming spices. The true tastes of the food shine through the subtle adornments that awaken new taste buds with each bite.
For the main course, I chose crabcakes ($21.95) and my husband got jambalaya ($16.95). Both were delectable - filling yet light. We brought home what we couldn't finish and enjoyed another meal for lunch the next day.
Although the crabcakes seemed a little expensive, I realized the reason when my plate arrived. A full half-pound of North Carolina blue point crab meat was packed into the two fist-size mounds. I didn't crunch a single shell in the lumps of succulent white meat. And there was so little cornbread filling holding the fresh seafood together that the crabcakes virtually peeled apart at the touch of my fork's tines. Old Bay seasoning was the only discernable outside flavor except for a light drizzle of whole grain dijon mustard and brandy cream sauce that added a slight tang to the tantalizing dish.
A pile of crisp snow peas, sliced mushrooms and shredded carrots were served on the side. Glazed with seseame oil and a touch of pepper, the garden-fresh vegetables were a great compliment to the Outer Banks seafood. Our laid-back, upbeat waitress Pam served sourdough rolls and a ramikin of butter on the side.
My husband said his jambalaya was ``undoubtedly among of the best'' he'd ever sampled - including some we supped on in New Orleans. The tomato-based cajun stew was strewn with shrimp, scallops and andouille sausage. Two finger-size crawdads sprawled across the top. Clams and mussels, still in their shells, formed a ring around the rim of the wide bowl. Onions, green bell peppers and crushed white peppercorns had been added to the mildly spicy, thick stock, poured over real rice.
``It's incredibly flavorful. But it's not too intense,'' my husband said. ``This food really pays a lot of attention to balance. It doesn't lean too far in one direction. A lot of different tastes are accented. But none are overpowering. The more I eat, the more tastes I experience.''
Although we were stuffed after such a scrumptuous supper, we felt compelled to sample one of the restaurant's two desserts. We bypassed chocolate bread pudding with Jack Daniels carmel sauce and opted for the Granny Smith apple pie. Maybe we should've stuck with my chocolate craving after all.
The thick piece of pie was homemade, but lackluster. Served cold on a thin crust, the slices of somewhat crunchy and dried out apples still had on their green skins. Plump raisins and chunked walnuts added texture and taste. A sprinkling of graham crackers, cinnamon and brown sugar was spread across the top. A dusting of powered sugar capped the creation.
If you dine at Roadside - which I highly recommend - opt for one of the incredible appetizers or soups before dinner instead of saving room for dessert.
The meal itself was marvelous - as was the service. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
The Roadside Raw Bar & Grille is a cozy cafe that only 36 seats, but
seems airy and open.
ROADSIDE RAW BAR & GRILLE
Where: Duck, on the east side of N.C. Route 12.
Phone: 261-5729
Features: Daily lunch and dinner specials. A full raw bar serving
raw and steamed seafood. Live jazz and blues music on the deck
Tuesday and Friday nights.
Prices: Lunch and appetizers, $3.95 to $8.95; dinner $14.95 to
$21.95 plus live Maine lobster at market rate.
Children's Menu: Yes.
Drinks: Soft drinks, coffee, iced tea, extensive international
wine and beer selections.
Credit cards: MasterCard and Visa.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., plus steamed seafood and vegetables
until midnight at the bar.
Reservations: Not accepted.
Handicapped accessible: Yes. by CNB