DATE: Sunday, November 9, 1997              TAG: 9711070221

SECTION: PORTSMOUTH CURRENTS     PAGE: 04   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: ON THE TOWN IN PORTSMOUTH 

TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW 

SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE 

                                            LENGTH:   78 lines

CARIBBEAN CUISINE SERVED AT ISLAND GRILL

The former Vic Zodda's Harborside in the Holiday Inn Olde Town (8 Crawford Parkway, 393-2573) is now The Island Grill, offering such island dishes as conch chowder, chicken Calypso, Pan-grilled tuna with red pepper relish, and other sea-inspired dishes, along with steaks, and a selection of pasta dishes.

In tandem with the Cock Island Bar & Grill, formerly Madleine's, which I profiled some months back, The Island Grill is the main hotel restaurant, offering breakfast seven days a week, from 6:30 to 11 a.m.

The Caribbean theme is carried with Latin and island offerings. The breakfast burrito ($4.95) offers two flour tortillas with fruit, salsa and honey, with country-fried potatoes or grits, toast and jam. Caribbean Sunrise ($5.75) offers fried potatoes, green peppers, onions and ham topped with a pair of fried eggs and Monterey Jack cheese, toast and jam; while the shrimp frittata ($5.75), is a traditional Italian omelet with onions, peppers and shrimp, with potato or grits, toast and jam. Catfish and eggs ($6.95), Huevos Rancheros, two eggs topped with melted cheddar ($4.95), or even an Island Grill Steak (sirloin with two eggs, potatoes, toast, etc., - $8.25) appear.

Other breakfast choices include hotcakes, blintzes, omelets, two eggs with bacon, sausage or ham, with potatoes or grits ($4.95), and a breakfast bar ($6.95).

Currently, lunch is served in the dining room from Wednesday through Sunday, offering the Cock Island Bar & Grill menu. The $5.95 luncheon bar, featuring fried fish, clams, etc., served Wednesday through Friday, may appear other days if a large group is booked. The Cock Island menu is offered all day long in the lounge, with a crab cake ($7.95); oyster sandwich ($6.95); onion Caesar burger ($5.75); Red Chili BBQ Prime Rib Sandwich ($6.95); conch fritters ($4.95), jerk chicken strips ($5.95), and more.

But it is dinner (served 5:30 to 10 p.m., daily) we're discussing. Many Cock Island appetizers repeat, such as the excellent bruschetta, brushed with garlic and oil and topped with Roma tomatoes, red onion, feta cheese and fresh basil ($3.75). Also offered: a chicken quesadilla ($4.95); jerk chicken strips ($5.95); stuffed mushrooms with crab meat ($6.75); and beer-battered onion rings ($2.95 or $4.95).

We tried Plantation-style oysters, a layered concoction of oysters broiled in butter, over Virginia ham on a base of bread ($6.50), the only disappointment of our meal, being nothing special. On the other hand, the conch chowder ($2.95), with bits of conch in a rich, creamy broth, was closer to a she crab-style than traditional island chowder, but extremely tasty.

Julie had imperial stuffed flounder, a pair of filets stuffed with crab meat ($15.95), with Spanish rice or the baked potato she chose, and steamed broccoli with cheese. A bit old-fashioned-or should I say traditional - compared to offerings such as grilled mahi mahi with pineapple salsa ($13.95), or pan-grilled tuna with red pepper relish ($14.95), but well-prepared and an area stalwart.

Also available: a seafood platter sampling of flounder, shrimp, oysters, crab cake, and scallops, broiled or fried ($18.95); broiled or fried Louisiana oysters, sea scallops, or jumbo shrimp ($12.95); and crab cakes ($13.95). Chicken dishes include balsamic basil chicken, a boneless breast marinated and grilled ($10.95); Chicken Calypso, tenders rubbed with Cajun seasoning, topped with julienned peppers, carrots, and zucchini, over angel-hair pasta ($10.95); and crabmeat chicken dijonaise, a boneless breast, topped with crab meat and a dijonaise sauce ($14.95).

I had Brazilian steak and shrimp ($17.95), a 10-ounce New York strip char-broiled and topped with a pair of shrimp, sauteed onions, red and green peppers, and topped with Monterey Jack cheese. The steak was perfectly seared, done rare, and the topping provided a counterpoint to the rich flavor of the steak. Also available are prime rib ($12.95/$16.95); an eight ounce filet with grilled vegetables ($16.95); a grilled pork loin topped with Parmesan cheese and black beans over rice ($10.95); and barbecued ribs ($9.95). Pasta dishes include penne with spinach, garlic, dill and feta cheese ($5.95); pasta marinara ($5.95), or primavera ($6.95); with garlic, olive oil, Roma tomatoes and Romano cheese ($7.95); and a spicy Thai-style dish with shrimp, peanuts and sweet peppers, tossed with olive and hot pepper oil and sliced green onions over angel-hair pasta ($13.95). ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE

The Island Grill in the Olde Towne Holiday in is open for breakfast,

lunch and dinner.

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