Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, March 4, 1990 TAG: 9003052382
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D2 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John K. Arbogast Extension agent for Roanoke
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Q: Help! My two hydrangeas have never bloomed and they are more than 10 years old. They are planted in a clay soil that is very acidic (about pH 5.4 to 5.6) with mulch to add good drainage. I have daffodils and tulips and day lilies planted in the same soil and they are thriving. The hydrangeas have lots of growth in leaves and are about a meter in height. B.G., Riner
A: This is not an easy question since there are different kinds of hydrangeas. Also, further information about the plants' environment would be needed since the daffodils, tulips and day lilies you mentioned can bloom with less than full sun and under differing circumstances. If the hydrangea you have is the Bigleaf Hydrangea, which has blue flowers in acid soil or pink flowers if the pH is above 6.0, winter injury could explain the failure to make blooms. That hydrangea is good for southern areas, and your part of Floyd County would not be considered southern. If your hydrangeas are the Smooth Hydrangea, which can have 4- to 6-inch diameter flower structures, you may have in fact gotten flowers. According to Tom Weiboldt of the Virginia Tech Herbarium, this hydrangea produces two types of flowers. The more normal condition would be the fertile flowers, which are not showy. This plant can produce showy expanded flowers, which are sterile and normally produced only around the periphery of the flower cluster or not at all. Weiboldt stated that nursery men have selected and propagated that "abnormal" condition in which all or most of the flowers are the showy sterile type. People have come to expect that showiness but that doesn't mean all of this hydrangea's cultivars will be that way. To identify just what kind of hydrangea you have and possibly learn from that why they're not flowering, take a leafy sample to your local Extension Service office next summer. You are served by the Floyd County office, which is in the county courthouse basement, Room 106, in the town of Floyd, telephone 745-4135.
Q: Please give me information on taking care of indoor mini-orange trees. Santa Claus sent me one without any instructions on how to care for it. W.D., Roanoke
A: Indoor citruses should be fairly easy to take care of. They thrive in a well-drained, general purpose soil mix in either pots or tubs that are slightly larger than the mass of roots. Repot young specimens in early spring immediately after the winter resting period and just as new growth begins. Old plants in large containers should need repotting at intervals of several years only. From the time when new growth begins in the spring, grow these plants in full sun where the night temperature is about 55 degrees and the day temperature a little higher. Water to keep the soil evenly moist; feel the soil first before watering to avoid keeping it too wet. Use a water soluble indoor plant fertilizer according to package directions about once a month while the citrus is making active growth. It is helpful to mist or spray the foliage with clear water every day to help prevent spider mites. In the fall, citruses like to take a rest. So from October to February keep the soil on the dry side and the plants in a 45 to 50 degree night temperature with a little warmer by day.
Q: I have two red rhododendrons that I have had for four years. They are in good health. Each spring they are full of buds but right before blooming time the buds turn brown and dry up. They have never bloomed. I have used fertilizer for this type of shrub. Please give me any information as to what I need to do. A.V., Pulaski
A: It is likely that something from the environment has damaged the flower buds before they are to open. If your rhododendrons are in a location where they receive much winter sun, winds, or chills as in a low area, the buds may actually be dying during the winter but just not turning brown until almost time to open. You might try giving your rhododendrons some winter protection with wind breaks or burlap shade screens. Also, make sure that your "rhodos" have an adequate supply of water during the entire year.
Q: Please tell me what kind of spray to use and when to use on fruit trees. I have two apple trees, three cherry trees, a pear and a plum. Also, when is the best time to thin the trees. The apple and cherry trees bear fruit but the fruit is not too good. The worms bother the cherry and apples. J. R., Troutville
A: Explaining a fruit tree spray program is not simple. For problem control on just a few fruit trees at home, many folks are using one of those general purpose fruit sprays, available from various companies at many garden centers. These products contain a fungicide and insecticide(s) already together. For details on setting up a spray program, contact your Extension Service office, which for Botetourt County is in the historical building just west of the courthouse in Fincastle, 473-8260. Now, in late winter while the fruit trees are dormant, is a good time to prune them and thin out crowded branches.
GARDENERS' CHECKLIST
It is time to plant spring peas, also known as garden peas or English peas, as soon as the soil is workable (not excessively wet). Peas absolutely must grow and produce before the weather turns hot, although the variety Wando will tolerate some late spring heat. For increased yields on new garden soil, treat pea seeds with powdered nitrogen-fixing bacteria to inoculate them before planting. This material is available from some garden or farm outlets. Plant peas about 1/2 inch deep or shallow in cold, damp soil.
Gardeners who like to start their own vegetable garden transplants and have the sunny windows or greenhouse to be successful can seed tomatoes now. Remember that strong light is necessary to produce stocky, vigorous transplants that will then thrive when planted in the garden later.
Gardeners who don't have a bright location are better off buying sturdy transplants from garden centers after the frost-free time has arrived.
Boxwoods can be pruned this month by cutting back the branches to the desired height and also thinning out the thick, outer stems.
Send your garden questions to Dear John, c/0 Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke Selected questions will be answered in this column.
by CNB