Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, March 7, 1990 TAG: 9003061857
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: dolores Kostelni
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Owner Darold Adams from Elkin, N.C., has transformed what had been an elephantine barn of a place into several reasonably sized eating areas. Adams said he opened Mayo River here because he likes the looks of Roanoke. The restaurant is so named because the original Mayo River Seafood in Stuart has a dining room built over the Mayo River, and he thought the name was a good one.
Because the Roanoke building had originally been designed as a fish restaurant, (remember Fass Bros.?), the kitchen did not require any major renovations. The dining room, though, had deteriorated and needed repairs. Battalions of fans have been installed on the ceilings to keep air moving. However, when they're on, tornado-like swirls envelope the tables below.
The menu carries a long list of various types and different ways of having fish, most of it emerging succulently fried. Mayo River Seafood knows how to fry fish properly, and they state on the menu that they fry "in 100 percent pure vegetable oil." The batter is thin and it adheres just the way it should; it does not separate in any way from what it is coating. The fish is crispy and greaseless on the outside and moist within.
For $1 extra, most of the entrees can be ordered broiled.
I barely scratched the lengthy two-page menu, but I enjoyed the fillet of skinless flounder on the Mate's Plate ($8.95) and the calabash-style shrimp in combination with cold boiled shrimp ($7.50). On the Mate's Plate, a huge piece of perfectly fried, crisp flounder sat in the middle of golden mountains of batter-wrapped calabash shrimp, soft french fries, sweet hush puppies, and one deviled crab, forlorn with more filler than crab.
A platter ($7.50) of personal favorites can be created by mating any two of 14 items listed under the combination platter section of the menu. From Tuesday through Thursday, there are combination specials at $5.95. Sunday's lunch or dinner special is an 8-ounce choice rib-eye steak ($6.95).
The most expensive items on the menu are the sea and shore specialties priced from $13.50 to $15.95. Just to see what they were all about, I ordered the steak and lobster ($15.95). A pan-fried to perfect medium doneness, half-inch rib eye was accompanied by a peculiar tasting single lobster tail. A small paper cup container of sweetened gloppy coleslaw, a mound of limp french fries and a piece of Texas toast completed the dinner.
Ending the meal with a cup of Mayo River's coffee (75 cents) is exactly where to stop; desserts ($1.50) are gluey and not worth the calories. Only non-alcoholic beverages are served.
There is no view from Mayo River Seafood, but there the feeling of a boardwalk restaurant. When the dining rooms are crowded and the line is in the parking lot, service can be a little harried. The best advice is to get there early or make reservations; keep the order simple and request that side items be cooked the way you like them. Prices are reasonable, and portions are hefty. It is possible for two to eat like first mates for under $20.
MAYO RIVER SEAFOOD
7416 Williamson Road 563-9990
HOURS: Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m.
DINNER ENTREE RANGE: $5.95 to $15.95
BEVERAGES: Non-alcoholic only
CREDIT CARDS: American Express, Visa RESERVATIONS: Accepted
NON-SMOKING SECTION? Yes
by CNB