Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, March 14, 1990 TAG: 9003152775
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: dolores kostelini
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
When evaluating a Chinese restaurant, I emphasize balanced seasonings, freshness of ingredients plus type and cut of vegetables. The Chinese stove has two seasoning boxes within easy reach of the chef: salt and monosodium glutamate, both caveats for the gastronomically aware.
Even with the limited availability of fresh Oriental vegetables in the area, an immediate letdown sets in when plates display an abundance of peas and carrots. The absence of small pea pods and at least one Chinese mushroom spells disappointment. Watered-down tea and shrimp dishes with those tiny shrimp that have been frozen are in a shabby class of their own.
Paramount to the quality of most Chinese dishes are the distinctive sauces. Overly thickened, sugar-balanced, maraschino-red and those that are American ketchup-enhanced flash baffling messages to me.
Here's a closer look at three Chinese restaurants in the Roanoke area:\ Szechuan
\ This bright, bustling restaurant overlooking Virginia 419 packs them in for the $4.95 lunch buffet of two soups and six main-course items. There is also a 20-dish lunch menu of familiar dishes; all are served in generously sized portions at rock-bottom prices.
Highly recommended is the zesty chicken curry ($3.95). It's cooked dry-style, so the colorful, heady spices enrobe the ingredients instead of infusing a sauce. Two other good dishes are chicken with garlic sauce ($3.95) and beef with broccoli ($4.25).
The dinner menu lists 91 items, ranging widely in complexity and variety. Steamed dumplings, (six for $3.25) are light little pouches, delectably stuffed to bursting. The tiredest palate awakens with the thick, spicy, hot and sour soup ($1.25). Wonton soup ($1) is soothing and filling with those delicious dumplings, here poached in a balanced, nicely yellow broth. Marvelous is the only word for the fried string beans ($3.25).
Lobster Hong Kong ($13.95) is a vision: snowy lobster, lots of straw mushrooms and many well-cut vegetables. Alas, it is a disaster on the tongue. Even the halo of paper-thin orange slices can't cut through the ton of salt. Dragon and phoenix ($10.95) and general's chicken ($8.95) similarly burn with the sting of too much salt.
I returned to Szechuan more than the standard two times for a review, just to see if the high salinity had been an isolated mistake. Unfortunately, it is more often the case than not. Fortunately, it would be easy to correct.
Thoughtful touches are hallmarks of Szechuan: dainty, floral-patterned china; lovely carved vegetables as decorative garnishes with entrees; and the unexpected but typically Chinese fresh orange half as giveaway dessert with dinner. Almond cookies (4 for $1) after the orange are almost heaven.
What is most important is that Szechuan serves fresh and attractive dishes that could be the best of the best in our area.
\ Shanghai
\ It seems as if all Roanoke Valley converges at Shanghai for lunch, and it's no wonder. Elegant decor, quick service, tasty food, ample portions and the right prices make it an appealing option.
Soups are winners at both dinner and lunch, especially the Oo, a nutritious and thick bean curd soup, and the gently balanced hot and sour (both 80 cents at lunch, 95 cents at dinner). Luxuriously thick with goodness is the chicken and sweet corn soup, a treat for four at $4.50.
Lunch plates range from light to lusty and include wonderfully satisfying soft noodle dishes, lo mein, ($2.95). Moo-shi beef with two pancakes ($3.50) is smoky-tasting (from the meat having been grilled first) and fun to eat. Szechuan-style Yu Shiang Beef ($2.95), barely kicked even though it's on the menu as "hot and spicy." Delightful and couldn't-be-better is chicken with almonds ($2.95).
Fifty-five entree selections constitute the dinner menu. Dragon and phoenix in a bird's nest ($8.95) is beautiful and delectable: Tender morsels of chicken and shrimp spill out of a crunchy shredded-potato nest. Shrimp and scallops with vegetables ($8.95) had the potential for greatness, but seasonings were missing.
On two separate occasions, guests who had ordered Shanghai beef delight ($8.95) - marinated beef served simmering on a flaming skillet - both commented that presentation was dramatic but the beef was unappetizingly slippery.
It is a pity that on my first dinner visit, General Tso's chicken ($7.50) was served cold, and the dumplings (6 for $3), although pleasantly filled, were thick and doughy. Seasonings tend to be missing the mark and inconsistent. Because most of the food at Shanghai is appealing, I am inclined to excuse these flaws. It is one of the more diverting places at which to dine.
\ Hong Kong Restaurant
\ Lily and Peter Quo operate this spare outpost at the Hollins end of Williamson Road. Sometimes Lily whips the meals together while Peter visits with the patrons; other times, Peter does the cooking.
A full course "surprise" Chinese dinner for two ($9.25 each) unexpectedly fulfilled its name. The fried shrimp were thick and heavy with batter. Egg rolls were greasy and tough. One of the accompanying dipping sauces looked and tasted exactly like bottled seafood sauce.
Although the broth for wonton soup was flavorful, the wontons had a peculiar off-taste. General Tso's chicken was fried to toughness and frugally sauced. Beef with scallops and vegetables was acceptable.
Lobster with crisp rice and vegetables ($10.95) looked OK and tasted pleasant enough, except the vegetables consisted of only small pieces of Chinese cabbage and a few water chestnuts in a gelatinous sauce that got thicker as it stood.
Peter Quo is the pioneer founder of Chinese restaurants in Roanoke, having opened the Pagoda in 1970. Hong Kong probably keeps him busy.
\ SZECHUAN RESTAURANT
\ Corners Shopping Center 989-7947
HOURS: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
PRICES: Lunch, $3.95-$4.25; dinner, $6.95-$13.95. Take-out is available; free delivery after 5 p.m. with two or more entrees.
BEVERAGES: Full-service bar
CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard and American Express
RESERVATIONS: Necessary only for large groups or special occasions
NON-SMOKING SECTION? Upon request
HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE? Yes
\ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT
\ 1416 Colorado St., Salem 389-4151
HOURS: Monday through Friday, 11:30 A.M.-10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
PRICES: Lunch, $2.95-$4.95; dinner, $5.95-$12.95. Take-out orders are available.
BEVERAGES: Full-service bar.
CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard
RESERVATIONS: Only for large groups.
NON-SMOKING SECTION? An area is to be designated soon
HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE? Yes
\ HONG KONG RESTAURANT
\ 6717 Williamson Road 362-7700
HOURS: Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, noon-10 p.m.
PRICE RANGE: Lunch, $2.99-$15.75; dinner, $5.95-$15.75. Take-out and delivery within very limited area near restaurant.
BEVERAGES: Full-service bar
CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard
RESERVATIONS: Recommended on Friday and Saturday nights.
NON-SMOKING SECTION? Yes
HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE? Yes
by CNB