Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, March 18, 1990 TAG: 9003212479
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
First on the list should be correction of any winter injury through carefull examination of plants and pruning out of dead or damaged tips. The ice and frigid temperatures in December may have caused damage ranging from off-color foliage to dead leaves to broken twigs or branches. Trim the outer foliage if leaf discoloration occurred and prune dead parts back to live branch portions.
Scrape the bark in small scattered spots where leaves have been killed to check for green wood, which indicated life in that branch part, even if the old leaves have turned brown. Prune accordingly. Branches where the leaves were "burned" off but the woody parts still show life can be stimulated to produce new leaves by a light trimming.
Just prior to a new growth is an excellant time to prune boxwoods for better shape or to totally rejuvenate them. Hedge clippers can be used to remove a small amount of outer foliage from a boxwood, but doing this every year at the same height or shape on the plants will result in a thin layer of foliage only on the twig ends with bare stems below.
Boxwoods that are totally out of shape or no longer match neighboring boxwoods can be renewed by cutting back to healthy lower trunk areas at this time even if this means cutting the size in half. Pruners and saws for this must be sharp so that all cuts will be smooth and not shredded. American boxwoods cut back severely at this time of year will produce new growth quickly and soon form a nice little plant while English boxwoods may take one or two growing seasons to fill out again.
Boxwoods can be fertilized at this time of year to promote better color or growth, but boxwoods do not need to be fertilized every year as do roses and some other landscape plants. Use a slow release fertilizer according to package directions or else 10-10-10 can be applied based on plant height (before cutting back or damage if applicable) using these recommended amounts per shrub; for boxwoods 1 to 2 feet tall - 3 tablespoons; 2-3 feet - 1/4 cup; and 4 feet and taller - 1/2 cup. Scatter the fertilizer uniformly over the root zone, starting about six inches from the base of the shrub and extending out about a foot beyond the ends of the branches. Scratch the fertilizer into the mulch, soil or grass with a rake and water in thoroughly.
It is often necessary at this time of year to remove leaves that have blown around boxwoods. Boxwoods must have good drainage and can suffer lower stem damage if anything hold moisture against those lower areas.
Q: My lawn was fertilized in November 1989. Is it necessary to put Weed and Feed on it in April 1990? Mrs. M. L. M., Pearisburg.
A: Even though April and May are good months for leafy weed control in lawns where problems exist, this is not a good time to apply nitrogen fertilizer especially in sizeable amounts or in a quickly available form. The turf may turn a deep green as a result, but the root system might actually be weakened. Thus, weed and feed products are not necessary in April. Severe leafy weed problems can be combatted with an application of an appropriate herbicide on the target weeds in the spring by itself, not with fertilizer.
Gardener's Checklist
Lawns: To manage a lawn that has become bumpy due to worms, rake out the extremely rough spots and reseed if necessary; also, raise the cutting height on your lawn mower when you start mowing so that the high parts do not get scalped.
Crabgrass: Late March is the time to apply preemergence crabgrass killers, which may be known as crabgrass preventers, to turf areas. These chemicals work by killing young plants just as the seeds germinate.
by CNB