Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 29, 1990 TAG: 9004300460
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D5 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Marilyn is the tomato grower and the one who noticed the wall of water thing in a Gardener's Supply catalog.
The Wall O'Waters is actually a large, open-ended, clear soft-plastic cylinder made up of a series of connected tubes that are put in place in the garden and then filled about two-thirds full with water.
Once filled the water wall looks like a tepee. The teepee forms a protective shield that catches sunlight to warm up the chilly spring soil before you plant tender vegetable seedlings.
Transplants can be put in the soil warmed this way about a week or two before the normal time for setting. The water is supposed to warm up in the sun and then radiate some of that warmth back to the tender plant growing in the enclosure, thus protecting the tomato, pepper, or other tender plant from frosty nights. Remember that the average date of the last spring frost for Roanoke is April 30.
If this all works as it's supposed to, the tender plant growing inside the wall will hopefully grow up and out the top of the tepee formed. At that time, more water in the tubes might be suggested to hold the wall off the plant. Then, after the chance of frost is over, the wall of water can be taken away, drained, dried, and folded for use next year.
The true test, however, will be to see if my wife actually gets a juicy, vine-ripened tomato by the last week of June and if the tomato plants that start their outdoor life inside the walls actually outproduce the tomatoes growing in the usual way and set out after chance of frost is over.
(Gardener's Supply can be reached at 802-863-1700, or 128 Intervale Road, Burlington, Vt. 05401. The Walls O'Water sell for $14.50 for six or $52.50 for 24. Marilyn Arbogast is horticulturist for Roanoke City.)
Q: I was left confused by your information on lawns in a recent Sunday paper. Yes, I understand what you are writing, but I have undertaken over the past three years to use the Four Step Scott's Lawn Program on my yard. Is the Scott's program satisfactory for fescues/bluegrass? After reading your work today, I decided that it might be inappropriate and perhaps more expensive than what you suggest. Second question: I have a mossy area in this yard that I tried to scratch up and establish grass on last summer. Now it is even mossier. It is, of course, on the north side of the house, a strip about six feet wide by 12 feet long. I wanted to try to establish grass again this spring, now I understand from a neighbor that I should do this work in the fall. Please advise. J. B., Blacksburg
A: The first part of your question is a point of confusion for many homeowners who see turf fertilizers on sale in the spring of the year or hear of various four-step programs for fertilizing during the complete year. Virginia Tech has suggested for years that the most efficient time of year for bluegrasses or fescues to receive nitrogen fertilizer with the greatest benefit to building strong plants and root systems under Virginia growing conditions is in the fall months. If most of the nitrogen in the fertilizer is quickly released to the plants, the Tech program suggests two or three moderate applications from September to mid-December. If the fertilizer contains mostly slow-release nitrogen, apply it in a late summer application and a mid-fall application. With either form a small application is optional in late spring. For bermuda grass and zoysia grass lawns, Virginia Tech recommends fertilizer applications mid-spring through mid-summer with possibly an application of potassium in very late summer for winter hardiness of bermudagrass.
One problem with these four-step programs advertised on a national basis (Scott's is not the only one offered) is that they provide some form of fertilizer in early spring, late spring, summer and fall, which as you can imagine may not be the ideal in the long term for bluegrasses and fescues in our growing area. Another problem with these already established programs is that chemicals are combined with the fertilizer to cover pests that a given lawn may not even contain. For example, the summer treatment in the four-step program may contain insect control plus fertilizer. However, if there are no troublesome insects on that lawn when such a treatment is made or shortly thereafter, that application becomes an unnecessary application of a pesticide.
Moss has been growing prolifically in certain turf areas this spring, possibly due to the preceding 12 months' weather, so don't blame your work last summer for its abundance.
What your neighbor was alluding to is that late summer turf seedings, which some people call fall seedings, seem to be more successful than spring lawn seeding work. Grass sown in the spring may germinate but doesn't have the chance to grow strong roots before the weather turns hot, whereas grass established in late August or early September can make good root growth as the temperature gradually cools and should thus be stronger when the next summer arrives. So, you have time to take a soil test from that mossy area and apply lime well in advance of seeding if the pH is too low. Also, you have time to work on correcting other causes of mosses, which include poor drainage and compacted soil. The moss itself will have to be physically removed by raking or hoeing.
Got a question about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010.
GARDENER'S CHECKLISTz Broccoli: Check developing broccoli plants for green worms feeding on the leaves and around the heads. Apply the biological control sold as Dipe, Bactur, or SOK-BT. Repeat as suggested. Follow directions on the label.
Dried flowers: Grow your own dried flowers; start seeds of statice, globe amaranth, strawflowers and other everlastings to provide flowers for this year's arrangements.
Annuals: To grow annuals in pots on the patio, use a light weight soil mixture. Feel the soil frequently for dampness, as outdoor container grown plants dry out fast. Apply water soluble fertilizer according to package directions every two weeks.
Mulch: Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.
House plants: House plants in containers without drainage holes are poor candidates for outside. A rainstorm may drown and rot them. All plants perform better in containers with drainage holes.
Trees, shrubs: Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of water each week. It is better to water deeply once a week than to water lightly every day; the former practice encourages deep, drought-resistant roots while the latter practice encourages surface roots that may suffer during dry spells. Mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Vegetables: Now is the time to begin raising tender vegetables in containers set in sunny spots. Vegetables grown for their fruits, like tomatoes and peppers, need at lest 8 hours of full, direct sun each day.
by CNB