Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, July 4, 1990 TAG: 9007030225
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: HOLIDAY
SOURCE: Delores Kostelni
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Although there are no extras, such as bread and butter or desserts, it is easy to have a filling meal with a beverage for under $5. A taster in my group had more than she could eat with the Friday trout fillet special at $2.99.
Nightly Mate's Platters are specials ranging in price from a maximum of $4.49 on Wednesday for flounder fillet and calabash shrimp combination down to a minimum of $2.99 for Friday trout fillet or Saturday perch fillet. On any night, there is "country catch," also priced at ocean-bottom $2.99.
Accommodating all appetite dimensions is no problem, because platters come in three sizes, priced accordingly. The Mate's Platter is the smallest and is priced more than a dollar below the next larger size, called the Captain's Platter. The biggest appetite takes the Pirate's Platter, which is almost $2 more than the mate's. There is a great deal of food, no matter what size the platter.
A container of chopped cole slaw - this version bound with just enough thinned dressing - french fries or baked potato and several not-sweet hush puppies accompany all platters.
The food seems to be treated with respect, and the cooks are well-trained in the techniques of frying. Of four fried meals, none of the fish or fried side dishes oozed fat or grease when depressed with a fork. The fish was steamed to a turn within a crisp, golden casing.
A combination Mate's Platter of boiled shrimp, one foil-encased deviled crab and a heap of fried popcorn-sized calabash shrimp ($4.85) was as good as this can get. Fried farm-grown catfish fillets on a Captain's Platter ($6.29) received accolades from everyone, and especially from the catfish connoisseur in the group: It was the sweetest and tastiest any of us had ever had.
For those watching calories and nutrition, Libby Hill provides four broiled platters, three seafood and one chicken ($5.19). These, too, come with the regular fried side orders and a choice between house salad or cole slaw.
Broiled shrimp ($6.99), described on the menu as "16 large shrimp broiled on a skewer" were, indeed, just that number of lovely shrimp. After several tastes, I gave up on them; a heavy hand in the kitchen had ruined them with too much salt. Premium quality shrimp, broiled to a turn, as these were, need only a squirt of fresh lemon juice to make their statement.
Broiled flounder fillets ($5.95) deserve honorable mention because I liked them best of all. A generous portion, nicely broiled and gently seasoned with flecks of thyme and lemon juice, comes in an individual au gratin dish. This is an easy-to-eat dish that is tasty and not overly filling.
The decor is as straightforward as the food. Libby Hill occupies a plain brick building with a cheerful, brightly nautical interior. Every inch of the place, including the parking lot, is shipshape clean. The telltale, knock-'em dead fish odor that heralds so many seafood restaurants does not exist here.
With seven restaurants in a growing chain that began 37 years ago in Greensboro, N.C., Libby Hill Seafood served more than 4 million meals in 1989, said one of the owners, Kevin Conrad. They are planning to open another restaurant in Roanoke as well as one in Lynchburg.
The fish they serve comes from all over the world and depends on seasonal runs. "It is as fresh as fish can be," Conrad said. "Considering the distance from which much of it comes, it is flash frozen on the fishing boats and used by us in 24 hours. Time is the key."
This is the spot for really fast, good-tasting fish meals. Even if there is a 15-minute wait before you are seated, as there often is, from the moment you place your order, you'll wait fewer than 10 minutes for the meal. That means you can have a hefty meal under your belt and be driving away in a breathless 30 minutes.
This indicates that the dining room is well-managed and that tables are quickly cleared and swiftly reoccupied. Servers are upbeat, mannerly without being officious and acutely observant of emptying glasses and completed meals.
In many respects, Libby Hill Seafood is a change of pace and a great value. It would require a great search to do better at the price.
Dining Out's evaluations of restaurant accessibility to the handicapped are conducted by the Center for Independence for the Disabled, a non-profit organization. LIBBY HILL SEAFOOD 2843 Orange Ave. N.E., 342-0826. Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Price range: $2.99 to $9.60. Beverages: Non-alcoholic only. Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa. Reservations: Only for large groups and special events. Non-smoking section? Yes. Handicapped accessible? Yes.
by CNB