ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: FRIDAY, July 6, 1990                   TAG: 9007040242
SECTION: CURRENT                    PAGE: NRV1   EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY 
SOURCE: SU CLAUSON SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


BABES' BEST EATERIES

W HERE do you go when you have a little one in tow? You want to enjoy your meal, but that means making sure that the cherub enjoys his, too.

According to an informal survey of New River Valley folks, there are several criteria by which to judge the ideal eatery for diners of the peanut butter-and-jelly set.

\ Food, of course: Does the place have selections that please both of you? Are there economical, appealing menu selections just for children? Does this establishment offer a discount price for those for whom all you can eat means half a hamburger?

\ Seating: Does the hostess rush up with a toddler chair? Are the seats comfortable for those who squirm? Are they washable?

\ Speed of service: As you are well aware, a minute can seem like an hour to a kid. (Well, it's all relative; if you had lived only 1/20th as long as you have, a minute might seem long to you, too. Especially if your stomach was 1/20th as large.)

\ Diversion factor: If this place isn't fast, but you love it anyway, what are the possibilities for diversion? Is there a play area? Are there games nearby? Can he color on his place mat? Are there interesting things to look at?

\ Disturbance potential: What is the carrying power of a child's voice here? How much of an audience can you expect to pull in if he decides to pour gravy on his head? Are there secluded tables? How much of the clientele is under 12?

\ Attitude of the servers: Are they eager to accommodate children? Do they mind cleaning up? Does the establishment seem to encourage family dining? "It's hard to compete with the fast-food places," said Mike Clark of Radford, whose 4-year-old is especially fond of french fries. "He wants to go there because he can get a toy, and then when he's got that one, he wants the whole set. Then they start offering stuffed reindeer the next week, and you start all over again."

Fairlawn's Burger King, Blacksburg's Hardees and several other fast-food places are made doubly popular by their outdoor playgrounds. And they often feature game place mats, kiddie specials which include a toy and the kinds of simple foods children like to eat.

So the fast-food places rate high on speed, economy, diversions, low disturbance potential, attitude of staff, seating - everything but the food. And that's only if you're thinking of nutrition. You just can't get good vegetables at the drive-through.

But what if, like Netta and Richard Eisler of Blacksburg, you're seeking a fine dining experience for you and the children?

"We like Maxwell's" on North Main Street in Blacksburg, Netta said. "The girls feel grown-up there. The table manners that I know they have, even if I don't always see them at home, come out here. We have nice, relaxed, dinner conversations in a peaceful setting away from our usual surroundings."

The girls, aged 11 and 14, usually order entrees they don't often get in their cholesterol-conscious household - beef prime rib or chicken with a rich sauce.

Nelson Boan, owner of the Renaissance restaurant in Pulaski, loves to see children come into his quiet Main Street restaurant. Although he has a reputation for gourmet food, Boan said his staff will make special orders of luncheon entrees if that's what the child wants.

"I like to see them try a little of what their parents are having - let's say it's shrimp, scallops or pork tenderloin in orange sauce," Boan said. "It's good for children to appreciate fine food, but I want eating out to be a pleasant experience, so I try to give them something they're comfortable eating."

So after some questioning, Boan may find himself fixing a grilled cheese sandwich or a large order of fries. Sometimes he just scales down an adult order of catfish or fried shrimp. The main point is he wants to please.

"We've never had a child act up in here," he said. "They've always been as good as gold. I think that's because we appreciate them and they feel it."

Buzz Scanland, general manager of Mountain Lake Hotel, thinks of the many children his establishment serves as future customers.

"Yes, we have children's prices for the buffet and children's portions. We want them here. We want them to like coming back. Someday they'll be adults," he said. "I still remember the gas station in Salem that wouldn't pump up my tire when I was a kid. They're gone now, but before they closed I wouldn't ever patronize them."

While dining at fine restaurants can be a special experience, most New River Valley families interviewed preferred places that were a little less fancy, places that offered sandwiches on the regular menu, such as Bogen's in Blacksburg, Macado's in Radford and Blacksburg and the Cracker Barrel in Christiansburg.

"I look for someplace with large tables and no line," said Connie Stevens of Pulaski, the mother of a year-old girl. "You don't want baby to get tired out before you even get started."

Stevens brings along baby food and toys. Now that she's a little older, the baby seems to enjoy well-lighted restaurants with lots of interesting activities and decorations.

In addition to being tantalized by farm implements dangling from the ceiling, diners at the Cracker Barrel can put together puzzles at their tables or play the checkers game set up by the fireplace.

Kitty Irwin of Radford says the restaurant also is a favorite with her children, ages 5 and 6, because the food is tasty and served promptly.

"They also like Macado's and Sackett's, but Chinese food is yuck right now," she said.

Pizza places top the list of places that Mike and Dana Spraker of Pulaski take their children, ages 6 and 9.

"Especially places with salad bars," Mike said. "In fact, any place that has a salad bar is good. There's always something for picky eaters, and they like making choices. I'll take them any place but fast-food places. I don't like the food there."

Irwin agrees.

"They'd like to eat at fast-food places more often, but I don't like the fat and preservatives. Anyway, by the time you pay for the meal and the special toy, you might as well have gotten them a real meal with vegetables at a sit-down restaurant. And then you can eat leftovers that you like from their plates."



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