ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, July 8, 1990                   TAG: 9007090284
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: E4   EDITION: METRO  
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium


MULCH TO THE RESCUE

It is possible to have an adequate garden harvest during these long, hot drought periods, but you have to give the garden some help in the form of proper mulching and watering. And also think ahead. Before your next plantings, add organic matter to the soil and select drought-tolerant vegetable varieties.

At this time of summer, use organic mulches, such as compost, straw, herbicide-free grass clippings and partly decayed sawdust and leaves. These materials can be spread around growing vegetables. A 2- to 3-inch layer of these mulches is all that's recommended. They tend to absorb moisture, and this slows down the infiltration of water into the soil. I watered a small garden for 45 minutes and found that the soil under some grass-clipping mulch was still dry.

When you need to limit the amount of watering of the garden, water at the crucial times in a plant's life - during the first few weeks of development, immediately after transplanting, and during the formation of the part of the plant to be eaten.

Walls of water

This spring I wrote about the "walls of water" plastic things my wife found in a catalog. The walls were supposed to warm up the soil and provide shelter so that warmth-loving vegetables could be planted earlier than normal. Based on her experience, I can't say that they were worth the trouble.

We still haven't had a ripe tomato from the garden, although one of the tomato plants that started with a wall has grown much more than the others without walls and does have lots of green tomatoes. The peppers that had walls look good, too, but so do the ones that didn't have this device.

Of course, as any researcher can tell you, an opinion shouldn't be formed on one experience.

Q: I have a white rose that was so pretty and now it is almost bare. I have a red rose that cold weather hurt. Leaves of both colors get dark spots. I have used rose and floral dust by Ortho and it helps some. What can I do for them? Mrs. M.B., Roanoke

A: It sounds like your roses are suffering from black spot disease, a fungus that causes spotting, yellowing and loss of rose leaves. For control of rose black spot, Virginia Tech recommends Benlate (also known as benomyl), Daconil, Fore or Zyban. Some commercial products may contain these under a general name.

Two keys to success are: repeat the recommended application, no matter what product labeled for black spot control is used, and start applications early before any sign of infection occurs, preferably in the spring as the new leaves expand. The black spot organism actually invades the leaf and exists between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Because of this, it is difficult for a fungicide to kill that organism without losing the leaf.

This means that the disease can be prevented on additional growth but not cured in leaves already infected.

Before planting new roses, look for varieties that have been developed for black spot resistance.

Sanitation is important for older rose varieties and plays a role in slowing down the spread of the infection. I've read of an organic gardening idea to prevent rose black spot by growing tomatoes along with the roses.

Got a question about your garden, lawn, plants, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010.

Gardener's checklist

Azalea lacebugs are active on the underside of azalea foliage and should be controlled before severe damage occurs. Lacebugs feed by sucking leaf sap. Damaged leaves look dull gray or copper colored. To control active lacebugs, spray the underside of the leaves with Orthene or diazinon as directed on the container label. Repeat applications every 10 days until control is obtained. Leaves already damaged will remain discolored.

If your potatoes are visible along the garden soil surface, the portion exposed to light will turn green. Since these green areas must be cut off before using those potatoes, it's a good idea to check the potato rows and protect all shallow tubers from light by covering with soil or mulch.

Hot temperatures can reduce flowering and fruiting of certain vegetables. A good example is the snap bean, which will not flower when the daytime thermometer reaches the 90s F.



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