Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, July 15, 1990 TAG: 9007150245
SECTION: VIRGINIA PAGE: E12 EDITION: STATE
SOURCE: Associated Press
DATELINE: STEWARTSTOWN, W.VA. LENGTH: Medium
"It wasn't easy for the settlers to bring cows, sheep and other domestic animals across the Allegheny Mountains," said the Rev. Joseph Gluck, pastor emeritus and historian of the Forks-of-Cheat Baptist Church.
"That's why the black bear became one of the great sources of meat for the people who founded our church," Gluck said. "It was a staple. We eat some every year as a sort of memorial. Besides, it's a lot of fun."
The church, located on a hilltop overlooking the Cheat and Monongahela rivers, has been serving bear meat at its annual picnic off and on since the late 1700s, and each year over the last three decades, Gluck said.
The picnics mark the anniversary of the church's founding on Nov. 5, 1775. The celebration is held in July because "we like to celebrate while the weather is nice," said Gluck, 75.
"Bear-eating is not a Johnny-come-lately thing at the Forks," said the Rev. Chuck Yoke, the church's pastor. "The church founders used native bear meat to stay alive in the winter."
Visitors and others eating bear for the first time are eligible to become members of the World Bear Eaters' Association, said Gluck, who has the title of "Bear Master" at the church.
"I say some magic special Indian words, tap them on the head three times with the magic tooth taken from a West Virginia black bear and give them a certificate so they can prove to people they've actually eaten bear," Gluck said.
"Mostly, they just grin and eat it," said Gluck.
The association's membership is approaching 1,500 members, with representatives from at least 24 states and several foreign countries, said Gluck.
Hunters from the eastern counties of West Virginia provide the hind quarters cooked for the feast. Gluck said meat from 2-year-old bears is best, because, "Yearlings are too scrawny and meat from older bears is tough."
Lena Nicholson, 90, has been cooking bear meat for the feast for decades, and she said it's a daylong task. She cuts the bear quarters into roasts, trims the meat and then boils it in water three times.
"That bear meat is awful strong and greasy," said Nicholson. "You have to cook it that much to get down to the good meat."
The meat is then put into a long pan "with celery, apple and onion all over it" and put into the oven for several hours, Nicholson said.
"I have to open all the windows and the door, the smell gets pretty strong, said Nicholson. "When it comes out, it has a little bit of a beef taste, kind of like a cross between beef and pork.
"People seem to like it real well," said Nicholson. "There's never any left, and I've never had anyone complain yet."
Gluck said he warns those eating bear for the first time that they may notice themselves growling afterward.
by CNB