Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, February 20, 1991 TAG: 9102190168
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Boomer's and David's Good Food, two establishments at the northern edge of the city, effectively fulfill these standards. Both offer friendly, quickly served, solid sandwich and salad fare at remarkably low prices in joint-jumping, noisy environments.
I'm not complaining about the decibel level. In fact, I like both places. It's downright refreshing to see crowds talking and laughing and having a whale of a time.
Boomer's
The place with the cartoonish name - which just happens to be the nickname of owner Ed Conner - is as big as a football field and just as loud. Boomer's provides something for everyone.
The cafeteria-style line moves quickly, so it's hard to read all the way through the extensive posted offerings before your turn to order comes. But no matter how packed Boomer's gets, there's no rushing.
From the 24 sandwiches, I selected #4, the "Home Run" ($4.35) on a whole wheat sub roll. Right before my eyes, one of four food-gloved cooks made my sandwich by slicing and layering the hefty filling of ham, Genoa salami, cappicola, prosciutto and provolone with trimmings of lettuce, tomato, onion, oil, vinegar, spices and mayo. (I also asked for Dijon mustard, but I wish I hadn't: the first taste was so volatile I thought it had blasted a path through the top of my head.)
The prosciutto defied a clean bite and emerged like a long, dark tongue hanging from my teeth. It dared me to enjoy it. (I finally did, but only after removing it and eating it separately. This is a quality Italian ham with excellent flavor and texture but sliced too thick; prosciutto should always be transparently thin.)
A real winner, the "All-American" #9 on a white sub roll ($3.75), features layers of turkey, ham, bacon and cheddar and although I didn't want it steam-warmed, the results were tasty and satisfying. Unfortunately, an accompanying plastic-foam container of the day's soup, minestrone ($1.65), had an unpleasant, pervasive sourness.
A later phone call confirmed that the minestrone was from Campbell's, and I have found this sourness to be typical of the brand.
You can't go wrong with #16, "The Tarheel," a barbecue with slaw sandwich ($2.95). Even though it's a touch on the sweet side, the tender meat was brightly flavored and most enjoyable with the excellent onion roll. Side orders of homemade macaroni salad ($1.35) and coleslaw (95 cents) are fresh go-alongs for any sandwich.
Another sandwich worth trying - it's such fun to eat this tasty, gloppy, drippy mess - is #24, "The Mexican" ($3.75), a handmade pita rolled around a filling of taco beef, shredded lettuce, chopped onion, tomato, pepper, shredded cheddar and generous dollops of sour cream. I had this warmed so the cheese would melt into everything. Tackle it with a knife and fork.
There's plenty more on the menu: food for kids ($1.15-$1.80), all sorts of wide-ranging side orders, desserts and extras. They compound the fun of noshing in this big, fun-loving, sociable place.
David's Good Food
Even though David's is a cottage-like place seating only 24, it serves up immense portions of warm, country hospitality along with its quickly prepared lunches.
Homespun touches festoon the walls, and underscoring the neat blue and white color scheme are spotless, checkered vinyl table coverings.
Named after owner Joan Thomas' husband, David, this small sandwich establishment is their team effort. No matter how packed the place is - and sometimes it's wall-to-wall people - whatever I've ordered at the front counter has been delivered to the table in five or fewer minutes.
Joan and another woman take orders and serve beverages at the counter in double-time, while one other person prepares the sandwiches and lunch plates at staccato pace. Neither misses a beat.
The menu carries an adequate selection of subs, sandwich specials, regular sandwiches and salads. In addition to the board listing two daily specials and the assortment of homemade soups, there are Joan's great homemade muffins (59 cents) and cookies (49 cents).
Foremost among my winners is #6, "Lil' Dave Special" ($2.95), chopped pork barbecue piled high on a wonderful roll with coleslaw. I asked for mine sliced instead of chopped so I could tell if the meat was cooked the old-fashioned way with constant basting or suffocated in a potful of sauce. Happily, it is cooked the old fashioned way, and yes, it's wonderful.
Close runner-ups are the #3 roast beef ($4.25/large; $2.99/small) and #9, "The Vegie" ($2.99). Shaved tender slices of real roast beef topped with baby Swiss and grilled onions, spiced mustard, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise on a sufficiently chewy roll make this sandwich superior.
The Vegie consisted of a medley of fresh marinated vegetables (including green and yellow squash and florets of broccoli and cauliflower) topped with melted cheddar, lettuce, tomato and mayo, stuffed into an almost bursting pita.
One of David's best is a smoked turkey sandwich special with potato salad ($3.29). A cute covered tureen housed my piping hot fresh vegetable soup (99 cents with sandwich or $1.39 alone).
Just OK was the chicken salad plate ($2.99). I liked the idea of chicken salad on a mound of lettuce with potato salad and fruit garnish (pineapple that day). It lost out for me because of the sweet relish in the dressing. But that's what makes a horse race.
Lofty chocolate, lemon and coconut meringue pies (99 cents for a slice large enough to share) disappear like they were never there. I especially liked the chocolate because it was deep, dark and well-flavored. The lemon was well-balanced. Unfortunately, I found the coconut pie overpoweringly sweet; it had only a hint of coconut taste and texture.
You pay your lunch tally at the main counter before you leave. You tell Joan what you had; she rings it up.
This is the way it used to be in the good old days, and David's Good Food is a pleasant return.
by CNB