ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, March 3, 1991                   TAG: 9103040309
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: E-6   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium


PRUNING BOXWOODS CAN BE DONE NOW

Q: We have four 5-foot tall boxwoods along the front of our ranch-style house that make the house seem smaller than it is. I would like to reduce their size to about 3 feet. I understand that only half the branches should be cut back in any one year and that now is the time to do it. Can I reduce the diameter the full amount in these new cuts? M.S.R., Staunton

A: Healthy boxwoods can be pruned drastically just before the time of new spring growth, so you can do the complete renovation job this spring.

You will need sharp pruning tools, including hand-held pruners for cutting small branches, long-handled pruners, or loppers, for cutting larger branches, and a pruning saw for cutting trunk parts over 1-inch in diameter. You can reduce the shrub size (width or diameter) the full amount as well as cutting back the height. You might consider even lowering the size from your 3 feet goal to allow room for new growth.

Begin work on each boxwood by reaching in and cutting off the outer shell of growth. Then, after you can see what you're doing, cut back even further. The end result will be clumps of boxwood trunks, mostly large diameter size pieces, with no outer greenery and only those leaves that have been growing in the interior of the plants. They won't look attractive, but new leaves should soon start coming out from those trunks.

You can help that regrowth by applying a 10-10-10 fertilizer around each and watering in well after the pruning is completed. Also, give the boxwoods one good soaking per week during dry times this year. You might need to lightly shape some of the new growth shoots in late spring or early summer if the shoots are not uniform or are overly vigorous.

Q: I have three maple trees. One is a Norway maple, but I'm not sure what types the other two are. When is the best time to trim these maples? W.H.S., Buena Vista

A: The best time to prune established shade trees such as your maples is when the trees are dormant (leafless). That means that you can trim your maples now, although sap and water will likely flow out of the pruning cuts on a maple made this late in winter. A big part of pruning maples should be the removal of some of the weaker side limbs within the overall mass of the tree. It would not be advisable to cut the tree back by very much. If the thought of dripping sap from the cuts is objectionable, the other choice is to wait until May when the new leaves are fully out to do that pruning.

Got a question about your plants, garden, lawn, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010.

Gardener's checklist

It is time to plant spring peas, also known as garden peas or English peas, as soon as the soil is workable (not excessively wet). Peas must grow and produce before the weather turns hot, although the variety Wando will tolerate some late spring heat. For increased yields on new garden soil, treat pea seeds with powdered nitrogen-fixing bacteria to inoculate them before planting. This material is available from some garden or farm outlets. Plant peas about 1/2 inch deep or shallower in cold, damp soil.

Gardeners who like to start their own vegetable garden transplants and have the sunny windows or greenhouse to be successful can seed tomatoes now. Remember that strong light is necessary to produce stocky, vigorous transplants that will then thrive when planted in the garden later. Gardeners who don't have a bright location are better off buying study transplants from garden centers after the frost-free time has arrived.

Prepare for spring grass seeding or overseeding, which can be done later this month when the soil has had time to warm up. However, if the lawn soil is still soft and soggy, keep spreaders, wheelbarrows and other equipment off until the land has drained.



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