Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: THURSDAY, March 14, 1991 TAG: 9103190142
SECTION: LAWN & GARDEN PAGE: LG-14 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN K. ARBOGAST/ AGRICULTURE EXTENSION AGENT
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Gypsy moth
The devastating gypsy moth is a problem that can be critical to tree owners, particularly in yards where oaks are abundant. In Roanoke, we might have two more springs before the gypsy moth caterpillars appear and defoliate our trees. Areas just a short distance to the north and northeast of Roanoke already have experienced these pests.
The gypsy moth, introduced to the United States in 1869 by a French scientist living in Massachusetts, has been slowly spreading from that area ever since.
The devastation caused by the gypsy moth comes from a heavy population of the caterpillar stage, which hatches from eggs around the time that most hardwood trees bud out in the spring. The caterpillars are small at first, but can grow to be about an inch and a half in length and will have long hairs and five pairs of raised blue spots and six pairs of brick-red spots on the back. This feature is important because each spring, consumers here call or visit the Extension Office mistakenly concerned that tent caterpillars are the gypsy moth.
Tent caterpillars can be nasty, but they are nothing compared to the gypsy moth. By the time gypsy moth caterpillars usually complete their feeding in middle to late June, their damage will include stripping of all or most of the leaves of the hardwood trees, weakening those trees, plus leaving a large amount of droppings that may not smell too pleasant.
The caterpillars then go through a short resting stage before becoming adult moths, which are cream or brown colored and have a wingspread of about 1 1/2 inches. The moths do not feed, but they mate and lay eggs between July and September.
The state and federal governments have been involved in controlling the gypsy moth. The governments have monitored their spread in order to alert people about infestation levels, which might require controls and sprayings in some areas. However, for those in Roanoke and areas not yet infested by this pest, the most important thing is to maintain the health and vigor of trees. We don't need to worry about sprays yet.
Water quality and quantity
Home growers must be aware of the critical situation facing our environment. Our activities have been blamed for pollution problems that can affect water quality and also for wastefulness of water resources. A few simple suggestions on this topic include:
Use pesticides carefully. Be sure to properly identify pests and problem causes before selecting a control to insure that the control will be suited for the problem at hand and will be safe and effective.
Mow the grass as suggested so that no more than one third of the growth is removed. This will minimize the clipping problem. Don't bag those clippings; a fine scattering of clippings left on the surface will return some nutrients to the grass.
Use proper irrigation equipment, times and methods. Consider using soaker hoses and water timers to reduce water consumption; water during the early morning hours when water lost to evaporation in the hot sun will be less.
Planting trees
Last year, Valley Beautiful Foundation, a volunteer organization established to promote beautification of the Roanoke Valley, began a project to encourage citizens to plant trees. The effort is called "Re-Leaf Roanoke Valley," patterned after the national "Re-Leaf" program President Bush has supported.
The original goal set by Re-Leaf Roanoke Valley was for a total tree planting within the valley by the end of 1991 to equal our population of 225,000 (Salem, Roanoke City and County, Vinton and Botetourt County).
Spring is an excellent time to plant trees. Progress toward meeting the goal of Re-Leaf Roanoke Valley has been slow, and another year has been added to this promotion. To report tree planting activities in the Roanoke Valley or for additional information, contact the Re-Leaf Hotline at 389-0199.
Here are a few tree planting tips:
Dig the hole at least twice as wide as the root ball but only to the same depth in well-drained soil.
Use top soil saved for filling the planting hole, with no amendments.
If the tree being planted is from a container, take the pot off the roots and loosen that root mass before planting. Spread out any roots that are growing in the shape of the pot and are encircling the tree. If the new tree has the roots in a burlapped ball, cut all strings from around the trunk and root ball. Remove old-fashioned degradable burlap from the top portion of the root ball after the tree is positioned in the hole and roll it down into the sides of the hole; completely take away the burlap if it happens to be plastic.
Do not add granular fertilizer at planting.
Pruning a new tree is not necessary or helpful after planting, although dead or damaged parts should be removed.
Remember to water all new trees and shrubs once a week during dry spells during the first growing season.
by CNB