ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, March 31, 1991                   TAG: 9103310280
SECTION: HORIZON                    PAGE: D-5   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: WARREN LLOYD HOLTZMAN/ SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE: FIJI                                LENGTH: Long


FRIENDLY FIJI IS THE IDYLLIC SOUTH PACIFIC ESCAPE

If charm, beauty, variety, and uniquely friendly people are what you are looking for - in a tropical haven where English is spoken, where the water is drinkable and where your dollar goes a long way - then Fiji is a place to consider.

Fiji offers a laid-back atmosphere filled with traditions steeped in hospitality and service. From the moment you arrive, until you sadly depart, a sense of "Bula" accompanies and surrounds you.

Bula in Fijian means hello and welcome - but it translates into so much more.

It's a word we've all heard. The TV commercial that connects a telephone caller with Fiji gives us the friendly greeting "Bula vinaka beachside" in a South Pacific accent. "Hello, thank you for calling beachside" is the message in English.

The essence and spirit of "Bula" (boo-lah) approaches that of a warm verbal hug accompanied by a broad friendly smile, which I found reflected in the attitude of most Fijian people.

"Little wonder visitors from all parts of the world consider Fiji one of the Pacific's most hospitable countries," asserts Lane's Sunset South Pacific Travel Guide.

"As a place to go in the South Pacific, Fiji gives Tahiti a serious run for the money - but not nearly as much of it," according to Frommer's Dollarwise Guide to the South Pacific.

The late Malcom Forbes and the actor Raymond Burr are among the rich and famous who discovered Fiji's unspoiled natural beauty and have invested there.

The country of Fiji is an archipelago containing 300 islands (more or less) dotted like green emeralds across the South Pacific. Its sparkling seas dazzle with hues of azure, ultramarine, indigo and other incredible shades of blue. At sunset, navy waters reflect the vibrant golds and violets of the sky.

Experienced travelers compare Fiji with the Hawaiian Islands of 40 years ago. Like many other sightseers, I have a longing to sample authentic tropical island paradises, and have often been disappointed.

Frequently - among the swaying palm trees, soft sands and balmy breezes - I have found packages of commercialism, negative attitudes and indifferent, if not abrasive, service.

Fiji was refreshingly different. For example, tipping is not the normal practice (although tips will not be refused). Generally, Fijians feel tips (to ensure proper service) conflict with their traditions of unreserved hospitality.

Another continuing pleasant experience is the exchange rate between the Fijian and U.S. dollar. Currently $1 U.S. equals about $1.30 in Fiji dollars.

Fiji offers a wide range of holiday accommodations including five-star luxury deluxe (over $100 U.S.), expensive ($60-100 U.S.), moderate ($35-59 U.S.), inexpensive ($15-34 U.S.) and dormitories or camping sites at even lower rates (per person, per night, double occupancy).

Other choices include sleeping aboard ship while cruising the islands, self-contained apartments and romantic hideaways. Most resort properties feature "bure" (traditional thatched-roof hut) exterior styling, with fully modern conveniences and furnishings inside.

For many visitors, the ultimate Fiji experience is a sojourn through Fiji's Yasawa Islands on a four day/three night (about $500) or seven day/six night (about $1,000) Blue Lagoon Cruise (rates all inclusive, with food). These comfortable ships depart six days a week and cruise for approximately four hours each day from one beautiful island to the next.

When anchored, my days were spent frolicking on palm-fringed soft white beaches, snorkeling in crystal clear lagoons, visiting authentic thatched-hut villages, sipping cocktails, and snacking hor d'ourves during brilliant sunsets. Evenings provided time for socializing, dining with a varied group of interesting fellow voyagers, and sampling Yaqona (Kava), Fiji's non-alcoholic ceremonial beverage.

The Blue Lagoon cruises have been equated with being a guest on a well-appointed private yacht.

Whether a land lover or a cruiser, every visitor should experience the "Meke," which is a festive potpourri of traditional Fijian songs and dances. The "Meke" will normally be preceded or followed by a Fijian style feast called a "Lovo," with food prepared in buried sand ovens.

While most visitors seemed to enjoy a firewalking exhibition, I gained fuller insights into Fiji's culture and history, during a tour of the Pacific Harbour Cultural Center. I also enjoyed walking through the largest display of orchids in the South Pacific at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant.

Sporting enthusiasts can find all the active pursuits they desire.

With an average daily winter (May-October) temperature of 72 degrees and 80 in summer (November-April), you won't want to spend to much time indoors. The almost infinite number of excursions, ranging from traditional village visits to jungle river trips, are too numerous to detail. A Fijian holiday could be titled "Romance of the South Seas," "Blue Lagoon," or "Outer Island Hideaways in Paradise."

In 1987, Fiji experienced some political discord that resulted in a forced change of government, and substantially dampened tourism.

Since 1989, I have visited Fiji on three occasions, totaling almost five months, and at no time did I feel insecure or unsafe. The nearest thing to disorder I encountered was on the rugby playing fields, where brawny Fijian athletes collided with one another without the protection of helmets and padding.

Both Qantas and Air New Zealand offer joint excursion fares with U.S. Air, which include Roanoke departures (starting at approximately $1,390 round trip). Some routings allow stopovers on the U.S. west coast, Hawaii, and other South Pacific locations. As there are many options, restrictions and packages available, it is best to get these details from your local travel agent, or by contacting: Air New Zealand 1-800-262-1234; Qantas Airlines 1-800-227-4500; Fiji Visitors Bureau 1-800-932-3454.

If you go

International visitors fly into at Nandi International Airport. Passports, but not visas, are needed.

Passengers from North America will have crossed the international dateline, and lost 24 hours. But, don't worry, you will get the day back when you return.

On the main island (Viti Levu), adjacent to the Nadi area, you can be pampered in five-star luxury at the posh Sheraton Fiji and the Regent. A little less than an hour away on the coral coast, toward Suva - Fiji's capital city - is the Fijian. The coral coast boasts an abundance of other tropical havens in all price ranges, with private soft sand beaches, golf, tennis and a full selection of water sports on the premises, or conveniently available.

For detailed information, the Fiji Visitors Bureau's will mail you a comprehensive summary and, their "Fiji Island, South Pacific Paradise, Travel Guide" (available at most travel agents) is especially useful.



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