Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 7, 1991 TAG: 9104060249
SECTION: A GUIDE TO BETTER HOMES PAGE: 20 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
SOURCE: Virginia Cooperative Extension
DATELINE: BLACKSBURG LENGTH: Medium
And it becomes an efficient recycling effort for materials such as grass clippings and food scraps.
"There are many benefits," said Diane Relf, Virginia Cooperative Extension consumer horticulturist at Virginia Tech. "Compost improves soil in a garden and around landscape plants.
`'As you plan your spring garden chores, consider adding a place to start your own compost bin," she said, "to easily create the compost to add to your own garden or landscape plants."
Compost and other organic matter turn the soil dark brown or blackish and increase water drainage in the soil. Because the water drains through, the soil warms quicker. It reduces soil erosion because it allows water to percolate into lower soil layers rather than puddle on top and then run off.
To start composting, you can buy one of many commercial composters or construct one from wooden planks, concrete blocks, used freight pallets or chicken wire.
"Keep your compost pile a manageable size. Compost must be periodically turned to promote decay of its contents," said Relf. "Lifting and turning it requires some work."
Start the pile with a 3-inch layer of coarse plant material such as small twigs or chopped corn stalks. This aids aeration and drainage. Follow this with a 6- to 8-inch layer of plant and kitchen refuse - leaves, weeds, garden waste, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells.
Do not use meat wastes because they will attract animals.
Next, provide nitrogen for compost promoting microorganisms by adding several inches of fresh grass clippings, succulent green weeds or fresh manure.
Never include weed seed or perennial roots or stems that might become established. Also, do not layer grass clippings too thickly; they will mat and create an unpleasant smell. If fresh nitrogen-rich materials are not available, add synthetic nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of half a cup of 10-10-10 per 6-inch layer or blood meal also at half a cup per 6-inch layer.
To start the new compost pile, you need to add plant-degrading microorganisms. These can be found in soil, commercial compost starter or old compost. Use about an inch of soil for each 6 inches of plant wastes in your pile.
As materials become available throughout the growing season, layer the plant refuse, nitrogen-rich material and soil with microorganisms to fill the bin. Build the pile lower in the center so that water flows into the pile rather than off the sides. Keep the pile moist, but not soaking wet.
Within a few days it should start to heat up. If the pile fails to heat, it may lack nitrogen or moisture. If an ammonia smell comes from the pile, it is too wet or too tightly packed. In this case, turn the pile and add coarse material.
Once a month, or more often if the material is shredded, fork the pile over, putting the outside materials on the inside and the inside on the outside.
"The plant materials should decompose into compost in four or five months in warm weather, but decomposing may take longer during cool or dry conditions," Relf said.
Finished compost is black and crumbly, with a pleasant, earthy smell.
Spread it in the garden and dig or till it under to offer your soil and plants renewed vigor.
"Compost added regularly improves the soil structure. In a clay soil this means that the microscopic individual particles will be clumped together and more air spaces will be opened up between clumps," Relf said. "Without these air spaces the clay particles stick tightly to each other forming a nearly impenetrable barrier to water and gases. This is why clay is so sticky when wet and hard when dry.
"Compost increases nutrient- and moisture-holding capacity in sandy soil. Normally, nitrogen fertilizers leach quickly from sandy soil making it possible for them to go into the ground water," said Relf.
by CNB