Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, January 19, 1992 TAG: 9201200247
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: C-5 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN WARDE THE NEW YORK TIMES
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
GOT A DRIPPING SHOWER? YOU CAN FIX IT
A shower that drips or sprays unevenly is more than just a nuisance; it can cause major damage inside a wall. There are, however, ways to cure most shower woes.Here's how to figure out what is behind the drip:
If water drips from the bathtub spout while the shower is operating, the problem lies with the mechanism that directs the water to the tub or the shower head, the diverter.
The easiest diverter to handle is the one mounted inside a bathtub spout, with a knob on top of the spout. The entire spout should be replaced.
First, examine the underside for a small setscrew. If you find one, use a hex, or Allen, wrench or a screwdriver to remove it. Turn the screw counterclockwise, when viewed from underneath the spout.
If the screw is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, then wait at least 15 minutes before trying again. Avoid ruining the screw's slots or the wrench opening; if this happens, you might have to drill into the screw to remove it.
Once the screw is out, grasp the spout firmly, then twist and pull it off the section of pipe, or nipple, inside the wall. Take the spout to a hardware or plumbing supply store and buy a replacement. Install it by reversing the removal procedure.
If there is no screw underneath the spout, then the nipple is threaded. To remove the spout, insert the handle of a wrench into the end and turn the whole spout counterclockwise. Replace the spout with a new one. Before installing it, wrap the nipple's threads clockwise with one or two layers of thread-sealing tape.
Diverters mounted on the wall above the spout can be removed for servicing, but the water supply must be shut off first. That is done by closing the shutoff valves supplying the faucets, often behind an access panel in the wall containing the tub and shower fixtures, or by closing the main shutoff valve where water enters the house.
If water is supplied by a municipal utility, the main valve is usually indoors near the meter. If water is supplied from a well, the valve is near the pressure tank, also indoors.
If the diverter resembles a faucet knob or lever that is turned to operate the shower, remove the handle and decorative plate, or escutcheon, to expose the valve stem. The screw fastening the handle to the stem might be beneath a cap in the end of the handle; pry the cap out with a screwdriver. The escutcheon will be loose or held in place by a setscrew or thin nut.
At the base of the valve stem is a large packing nut that holds the valve in place and keeps water from leaking around the handle. A special socket wrench is usually needed to remove the packing nut, although a deep automotive socket wrench will sometimes work.
Often, you must carefully chip away the grout around the nut to accommodate the wrench. Do this with a cold chisel and ball peen hammer. Wear goggles to avoid splinters, and work carefully to avoid cracking the tiles.
If the diverter has been dripping, giving the packing nut a tightening turn might solve the problem. If the leak continues, shut off the water again and remove the nut, then withdraw the valve by pulling the stem with pliers.
Take the valve to a hardware or plumbing supply store and buy replacements for all soft parts: washers, O-rings and packing, which resembles string.
To replace the washer on the end of the valve stem, remove the brass screw that holds it. If you damage the screw in the process, buy a new one. To replace O-rings, cut the old ones off, then lubricate the new ones with petroleum jelly and roll them over the stem into their grooves.
To replace packing, press the valve back into its socket in the wall. Wrap two to four turns of packing clockwise around the stem, then tighten the packing nut over it. Removing old packing from inside the nut is not necessary.
Reinstall the escutcheon and handle, then restore the water supply. The diverter might leak along the stem for a few minutes but should stop when the packing swells.
To remove a push-pull diverter mounted in the wall, unscrew it with channel-type pliers. Wrap the pliers' jaws with tape to prevent scratching chromed surfaces. Replace the O-rings, then reinstall the diverter after wrapping the threads with sealing tape, as described above.
Leaking diverters and components that are part of single-handle control for both tub and shower can generally be repaired by removing them from the wall and replacing worn parts like O-rings, cartridges or inserts.
Styles differ, but for most major brands, repair kits containing parts and special tools necessary for installing them are available at hardware and plumbing supply stores or from manufacturers.
If a shower head leaks, unscrew it from the arm coming out of the wall. Hold the arm steady with large pliers, their jaws wrapped with tape, while turning the shower head counterclockwise with a wrench. Wrapping the threads on the arm with thread-sealing tape and replacing the head tightly should fix the leak.
If the shower spray is weak or unevenly distributed from the shower head, remove and disassemble the head, then soak the pieces overnight in vinegar to remove mineral deposits.
Afterward, scrub them with an old toothbrush. Replacement parts are available for expensive shower heads. Lubricate the swivel ball with a dab of petroleum jelly, and reassemble the parts in reverse order.
If the shower head is old, consider replacing it with a new water-saving model rather than cleaning or repairing it.