Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, January 26, 1992 TAG: 9201270262
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: B4 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
IF HUNTING MOLES, A CAT WORKS BEST
Q: Please help! My yard is being destroyed by moles. I have used mole pellets and a mole trap, without getting rid of them. It seems that my yard is the only one in my area that they like. They will uproot the ground to the edge of the next yard but don't bother that yard. What is in my soil that they like? What causes them to pick on one lawn? What can I do to get rid of them? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. In the spring I plan to plant some of the flower that is supposed to keep them out. Do you know the name of this plant or flower? O.A.B., CovingtonA: Moles feed on a variety of food in the turf environment, including earthworms, slugs and grubs. So, maybe the reason that moles tunnel in your yard but don't bother your neighbor's is that there are no insects in that soil for them to eat. However, it is not feasible to get rid of moles by applying soil insecticides repeatedly with the purpose of eliminating part of the moles food supply. That may also be risky for our environment and health.
Mole trapping is the best mole-control recommendation from Virginia Tech. However, for trapping to be successful, it is necessary that the trap be set on top of a regular runway or route that the mole is using. Many mole tunnels are made for one-time use only as the mole looks for food, and harpoon type traps set on top of one of those will not be successful.
The plant that is known to be repulsive to moles is the caster plant. This plant produces seeds called caster beans that can be dropped in the mole holes. The idea you mentioned of planting these may be effective if you plant a complete border of them around your yard. These plants are attractive ornamentals but be careful in their use since the seeds and leaves are poisonous.
A few other, non-chemical tricks that may encourage your moles to move on include:
Stuff raspberry bushes or other thorned branches into mole tunnel openings.
Sprinkle red pepper around tunnel entrances.
Get a cat. My wife and I have found that this last method keeps our yard mole-free.
\ Q: I have two questions. 1.) For the last few summers, the few small trees that I have in my back lot have been getting brown spots on the leaves that start off as small spots. Then, after the leaves get pretty well covered with spots, they dry up and fall off. Can you tell me what is wrong and what to do? 2.) Is it advisable to mulch there with pine needles? I've never used pine needles, but I have several pines and plenty of needles. E.M.A., Christiansburg
A: Since you did not identify your trees, I am unable to give even a guess on the cause and potential seriousness of that problem. That is because specific plants are known to be susceptible to specific problems. Just as soon as the problem shows up next season, call your local Cooperative Extension Service Office and bring them a sample of some leaves. You are served by the Montgomery County Office, which is on the second floor of the Courthouse Annex, 3 Franklin St., Christiansburg, telephone 382-5790.
Pine needles make an excellent landscape mulch around most ornamental plants. However, as with most organic mulches, the thickness should be no more than 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Some folks may consider pine needles to be an acidic mulch, best suited to acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Actually, the amount of acidity given off by fresh needles is fairly insignificant in most cases. This means that they can be used around practically all plants. Mulching is a much better use of home-grown needles than bagging them and sending them to the landfill.
\ Q: I have been bothered by insects flying about in my first-floor bedroom periodically this fall. They look like a lightning bug, but they are black with a little orange-red in color. Can you tell me what they are? Are they destructive? They are quite annoying. What do you suggest to rid me and the house of them? J.M.S., Salem
A: These insects fit the description of boxelder bugs, which are just a big nuisance. They get their name from the boxelder tree, which is their main source of food during the spring and summer.
The bugs don't cause damage to the tree, because they mainly feed on the seed pods. They spend the winter as adults, and in the fall, they move from the trees to houses and other buildings in search of a winter hiding place. Some manage to come inside, but they are not destructive. They don't bite or sting or feed on household items.
To get rid of them, spray individual insects with one of the common household insecticide aerosols produced for indoor use. Spray only in areas inaccessible to children and pets. Don't overspray.
Some of the bugs may not die immediately, but don't worry. There is no apparent insecticide resistance in boxelder bug populations. Also, you can use the vacuum cleaner to suck them up. They may stain carpeting if crushed, but that stain is not permanent.
If you think that you've eliminated all of them, don't be alarmed if you see more in mid-to-late winter. As the weather begins to warm, those that have been well hidden will become active.
\ Got a question about your plants, lawn, garden, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491.
\ John Arbogast is the agriculture extension agent for Roanoke