Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, February 23, 1992 TAG: 9202240244
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E-6 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
PREPARING SOIL TO SPRING FORTH WITH VEGETABLES
Since gardeners in Roanoke Valley are about three weeks away from planting the spring garden, there's much that needs to be done to get ready.Moisture can be variable this time of year, making it necessary to prepare the soil just as soon as it is workable. Consumers looking at the garden as a way to cope with the recession should include a spring garden, which will contain vegetables that flourish in cool weather and are harvested before hot weather arrives. By beginning the garden now, it is possible to harvest much from a small area that produces from spring through fall frost.
As soon as possible, gardeners should till or plow their gardens, mixing in organic matter that is at least partly decomposed. However, before that is possible, these jobs should be completed:
Remove any cover or mulch left on the garden if a cover crop was not planted last fall. That will allow the soil to dry enough to be worked. Old organic mulch, which should be well aged, can be raked to one side and then spread back over the dry soil to be tilled in.
Any debris left on the garden should be removed. Remnants from last year's garden that were diseased or infested with something should be totally removed. Healthy plants that died from old age or the fall frosts can be chopped up and tilled in as additional organic matter.
Gardeners who planted winter crops late last summer or during the fall need to mix that material in right away to avoid delaying the spring garden. If the cover crop grew a lot during the winter, it may have to be mowed before tilling.
People who garden in raised beds still have to make these preparations, although the work there is done by hand and shovels rather than a tiller or plow.
Remember that fertilizers are added just before planting, rather than during the soil preparation stage.
Q: I would like to know what makes peppers fall off of the plants when they are real small before they even get as big as a marble. I just don't have any luck with green bell peppers; they want to fall off instead of growing. Also, please tell me about raising cucumbers. I don't have much luck with them, either. Where can I buy a garden book that will explain how to raise garden vegetables? J.M., Roanoke
A: The problem with bell peppers is likely due to stress on the plants or to a soil problem, which could include improper fertilization, a lack of some mineral or a soil pH problem. Stress could be caused by anything adverse in the growing site, such as poor drainage that keeps the soil constantly wet, or a soil that needs organic matter because it won't hold an adequate amount of moisture. Peppers are considered to be medium feeders, which means that a small amount of fertilizer should be worked into the soil at planting and then a light fertilizing can be done after the first fruits have set. Too much fertilizer for them may cause excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruiting. To see if an imbalance of nutrients or a poor soil pH is a problem in your garden, take a soil test now.
Cucumbers can be difficult to grow because they seem to be a little more sensitive to soil and moisture limitations than some other vegetables, and they are susceptible to various diseases and pests. They need continuous moisture, but the soil should be well-drained and not waterlogged.
They grow best with a moderate to high level of organic matter and must have full sun. Cucumbers can be considered heavy feeders, which means that one to two tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed in before planting or seeding each hill, followed by a side fertilizing one week after blossoming begins and again three weeks later. Cucumbers are considered a very tender vegetable and should not be planted until the second week of May in Roanoke. It may be better to plant a second crop of cucumbers in early July, which will have fewer disease problems, than to try to continue harvesting a May planting until fall frost.
Excellent books on gardening should be available from bookstores, some garden centers and larger libraries. Sorry, I don't have a list of recommended books. I have found over the years that gardening experience is just as important in explaining gardening as are the books.
Got a question about your plants, garden, lawn, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491.
Gardener's checklist
Jobs for late February, early March:
Existing dogwoods and magnolias should only be moved in late winter or early spring. Magnolias, in particular, have a fleshy root system with few side roots and root hairs; dig them so that a ball of soil as large as you can manage remains around the roots to protect them. When transplanting either species, it is best that the trees be small (around 3 feet or less) and dormant. The small ones become established more quickly than larger ones; the larger the tree, the greater the risk of death due to transplant shock since more roots are removed during digging.
Resist the urge to fertilize your bluegrass or fescue lawn at this time of year.
With the onset of longer days, brighter sunlight, and new growth, indoor plants will benefit from periodic fertilization.
Gardeners who wish to start their own pepper plants to transplant to the garden in May should seed them now in order to allow eight to 10 weeks of growth indoors or in the greenhouse. Peppers require a little longer growing time after seeding before they reach the size that can be safely planted outside in the garden or flower bed compared to other vegetables, like tomatoes.
John Arbogast is the agriculture extension agent for Roanoke