ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: TUESDAY, March 10, 1992                   TAG: 9203100209
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: E-3   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: Toni Burks
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


MUSTARD IS MORE VERSATILE THAN IT SEEMS

Mustard is a must in most households, but perhaps not to the degree that it was centuries ago, when Pope John XXII reportedly slathered it on every food he ate.

The pope loved mustard so much that he appointed his rather unintelligent nephew "chief mustard maker to the pope," probably to keep his relative out of trouble more than any other reason.

These days, we have little need for mustard makers. We need only to choose from the incredible, and sometimes confusing, variety of mustards on supermarket shelves. To figure out which kinds you'd like to buy and decide how you'd like to use them, check this handy listing.

American mustard: A sweet, tangy flavor and a smooth texture characterize this bright-yellow mustard. Squirt it onto hot dogs or burgers or add it to potato salad.

Chinese mustard: This mustard packs a flavor wallop. Its hotness comes from dark, pungent ground mustard seeds that are combined with water, vinegar, or even beer. Serve it as a dipping sauce for egg rolls, wontons or Oriental-style grilled meats - but go easy on the amount.

English mustards: This brownish-yellow mustard is another hot one. It's traditionally made by mixing dry mustard with a little water. Serve just a little bit with cold beef or lamb.

Flavored mustards: Mustards can be flavored with everything from horseradish or peppers to tomato puree. To enjoy the unique flavors of these mustards, eat them plain with cold meats or as sandwich spreads.

French mustard: Perhaps the most famous French mustard of all is Dijon, named for the city that first produced it. This grayish, lemon-colored spread calls for combining ground mustard seeds with white wine, herbs and spices. Use it in creamy sauces, sandwiches, and vinaigrette or creamy salad dressings, or serve it plain with with cooked meats, poultry, or seafood.

German mustard: The best-known German mustard is dark-colored Dusseldorf, named after a city along Germany's Rhine river. It's made by grinding both the hull and seed, producing a mustard with a distinct aroma and a sharp, yet sweet, spicy flavor. Pair it with bratwurst and other sausages, ham, smoked meats, dark breads or sauerkraut. - Associated Press

\ MARKET SHOPPING Roanoke's City Market is in bloom again. Pansies, violas, daffodils, tulips, pocketbook plants, primrose, potted azaleas, sprays of forsythia and pussywillow are plentiful now, along with some perennials and herbs that should go in the ground soon. And especially for St. Patrick's Day: Green and red shamrock plants.

Potted geraniums are plentiful and they can take a few hours outside when the sun shines, but they should be moved indoors at night until the weather warms substantially.

If the garden plot is ready, there are plants for such cool weather crops as broccoli and cabbage. There are onion sets and plants and potatoes, too.

And, yes, there are tomato plants. They do not like cool weather and if they are planted now, the tender plants must have adequate protection from freezing temperatures. Winter isn't over yet, farmers caution.

First-of-the-season pickings of spinach are showing up, and the spinach is just right for refreshing salads. There are new crops of other greens, too, and cress - or "creasy greens" - as well as mustard, kale and collards are in good supply.

Tomatoes, green beans, squash, peas, asparagus and citrus from warmer growing areas are available. The apples from last fall's crop, apple butter, grape butter and honey come from nearby as do farm-fresh eggs - some duck and goose eggs, too - and country-cured meats.

\ MICROWAVE IT A hot dip makes a welcome addition to just about any buffet table, especially when the dip is made in the microwave oven in a mere 10 minutes. You can save on cleanup by cooking and serving the dip in the same container. What do you do when the dip cools down? Just pop it back into the microwave to reheat it.

Hot cheese dip\ 1/4 cup finely chopped onion

1 Tbsp. margarine or butter

1 tsp. cornstarch

1/4 tsp. pepper

3/4 cup milk

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

2 cups shredded American cheese (8 ounces)

1 3-oz. pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 Tbsp. snipped parsley

Assorted unsalted crackers, chips or vegetable dippers

In 1 1/2-qt. microwave-safe casserole combine onion and margarine or butter. Cover and cook on high (100 percent power) for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 minutes or until onion is tender, stirring once. Stir in cornstarch and pepper. Add milk and Worcestershire sauce. Cook, uncovered, for 2 to 4 1/2 minutes or until slightly thickened and bubbly, stirring every minute. (Mixture may appear curdled.) Stir in American cheese, cream cheese and parsley. Cook, uncovered, on high for 3 to 4 minutes or until cheese is melted and mixture is heated through, stirring after every minute.

Keep the dip warm in a fondue pot over fondue burner, or reheat in the casserole, as necessary, on medium (50 percent power) for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with crackers, chips or vegetables. Makes 2 cups.

Beer and cheese dip: Prepare recipe as directed, except substitute 3/4 cup beer for the milk.

Chili con queso dip: Prepare the recipe as directed, except substitute 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese for 1 cup of the American cheese. Add 1 4-oz. can green chili peppers, rinsed, seeded and chopped, and several dashes bottled hot pepper sauce with the cheeses. Continue as directed. Before serving, stir in 1 peeled, seeded and finely chopped medium tomato.

Herbed Swiss dip: Prepare recipe as directed, except add 1/2 teaspoon caraway seed or crushed dried tarragon to the onion mixture. Substitute 3/4 cup dry white wine or beer for the milk, and 2 cups shredded process Swiss cheese for the American cheese. - Associated Press

\ BEWARE THE LILY Last year Gourmet Magazine called for a poisonous ingredient in a recipe. Then Carole Walter's book "Great Cakes" (Ballantine Books, 1991) suggested decorating a dessert with lily-of-the-valley. Someone recently pointed out that eating this flower could cause symptoms ranging from upset stomach to irregular heartbeat and other circulatory problems.

Ballantine has recalled all unsold copies and is advising those who bought "Great Cakes" to cross out the flower reference on page 499. Or they can return the book for a refund: Call (800) 726-0600. - Los Angeles Times



 by CNB