Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: FRIDAY, March 13, 1992 TAG: 9203130549
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Not long after that he moved from Rio de Janeiro, where he had been working as a travel agent, and established himself in Roanoke through hands-on learning about the local food preferences from both Carlos and Fernando Gomez, the former genial host at Sugar Loaf in Salem.
Three months ago, Vanucci opened his own restaurant at the site of the former Shucker's, across the street from Carlos. Not only is Carlos a partner in Vanucci's, but he is also chief cook.
Vanucci's food is a wonderful blend of creative northern and southern Italian styles. In several visits, I enjoyed abundant portions of appealing, freshly prepared, moderately priced dishes.
Although I refrain from dwelling on negatives, especially when food is so palatable, serious, messy problems arise with their sauteed Maine lobster with linguine (variable market price; we paid $16). The shells are thankfully cracked, but the entire oily lobster arrives with its succulent, sweet meat still tightly locked within its red walls.
Because none of the expected refinements and amenities such as bib, finger bowl and wet cloths accompany this meal, my husband requested that the kitchen remove the meat from the shells. It was refused by the chef with this message: "This is the way we serve lobster." In any event, food should be user-friendly, and this was not.
So this review will end on a positive note. I will describe two other complaints voiced during earlier visits. The vegetable lasagna ($4.95) disappointed one of my lunch companions because it was not "authentic Italian." She based her criticism on the melted yellow cheese topping, not enough noodle layers, no vegetables other than an abundance of carrot sticks and a few flecks of chopped spinach, plus no ricotta and no visible stringy mozzarella.
Salads accompanying entrees are generally acceptable, but this is an area in need of more control: A few have been meager portions with dry-looking, bitter leaves. A pleasantly briny exception is the Greek salad ($3.50): choice, small, tender leaves enrobed with a chopped feta vinaigrette.
Otherwise, nine other dishes reached perfection. Cream sauces are weightless and silken while tomato sauces are bright red and fresh. Judiciously distributed spices lend character and are inserted at the correct moment of cooking. Pasta may not be cooked al dente, but it's not overcooked either, and it's appealing to just about everyone except purists.
Entrees are especially nice, and veal is one of the recommended dishes. Cooked piccata-style ($5.95 at lunch; $11.95 as dinner special) and sauced with a piquant, light white wine deglaze, the precious meat is expertly pounded so that every bite reveals moist tenderness.
Another splendid dish is the snowy white fresh cod in a chopped tomato sauce with celery and capers ($9.95). Side servings of pasta enhanced with the same sauce and a few turmeric-colored vegetables - cabbage pieces, carrots and zucchini - complete this memorable, healthfully prepared dish.
Linguine con gamberini, several good-sized, nicely cooked shrimp with pasta and sun-dried tomatoes ($7.50) spans the flavor spectrum from delicate to lusty. Textures also help to make this dish unusual with the tender shrimp, chewy sun-dried tomatoes and the lovely pasta-absorbing juices from every item and made all the better with a sprinkling of excellent Parmesan cheese.
Appetizers are first-rate. Leading the parade are the spinach-cloaked, fresh, beautifully pink-meated mussels sauteed with shallots, parsley and white wine ($5.95) and the colorful, incredibly delicious carpaccio of lightly smoked salmon ($5.95) dressed with olive oil, capers, oregano and provolone.
Except for the few negative aspects I've described, whether Vanucci's food is "authentic or not" is immaterial to me because it's fresh, attractive and tastes great. Italian food outside of Italy always tastes different. The restaurant is very much European-style: small with bright, white walls, glossy varnished woodwork and no gimmicks, just good food.
Dolores Kostelni has extensive experience in the food industry, having worked asa restaurant consultant, manager and chef.
VANUCCI'S\ 315 Market St. 981-0000\ HOURS: Lunch, Sunday-Saturday, noon-2 p.m.; dinner, Tuesday-Thursday, 5-10\ p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; Sunday, 5-9 p.m.\ BEVERAGES: Full-service bar.\ PRICE RANGE: Lunch, $4.95-$6.95; dinner, $6.95-$13.95.\ CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard, Visa, Discover.\ RESERVATIONS?: Only for large groups on weekends.\ NON-SMOKING SECTION? Yes\ HANDICAP ACCESSIBLE? No
Dining Out's evaluations of restaurant accessibility to the handicapped are conducted by the Center for Independence for the Disabled, a non-profit organization.
by CNB