by Archana Subramaniam by CNB
Roanoke Times Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc. DATE: THURSDAY, March 11, 1993 TAG: 9303110043 SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV12 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY SOURCE: Joe Hunnings DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
IF YOU'RE WARY OF PESTICIDES, HERE ARE SOME ALTERNATIVES
For some time now, there has been a growing public concern over the use and occasional misuse of pesticides.People have become more aware of the chemical-control measures used in modern agriculture and the problems associated with pesticide use - resistance, secondary pest resurgence, destruction of non-target organisms, increasing costs, health hazards and environmental contamination.
Consequently, more and more people are interested in using or at least trying some means of integrated control on their farms and in the garden and home. Integrated control or integrated pest management is the integration of various control tactics, including biological, cultural as well as chemical control into a comprehensive management strategy.
Biological and cultural controls are not new concepts. They have been used extensively and successfully for many years, but their development has taken on greater importance as we learn more about the ill effects of pesticides.
Biological control involves the manipulation of specific organisms that are antagonistic to pests. Cultural control is the manipulation of the soil system to reduce pest losses.
The first rule in solving pest problems is to identify the cause of the problem before you make any attempt at control. If you have trouble with identification, your local Extension office can assist. Identification services are available for insects, diseases and weeds. The Extension Soil Testing Laboratory also provides soil fertility and pH analysis. Household insects
Homeowners usually over-react to the presence of insects - any insects - in the house. The first reaction is that the insect or spider is harmful and that it must be killed immediately. While this kind of response is seldom necessary, it is often difficult to change. However, the means by which the invader is killed can be changed. Fly swatters and vacuum cleaners are often just as effective as a can of aerosol spray. There are common-sense, non-chemical controls for many household pests, and these methods are presented in many Extension publications available from your local Extension office. Landscape and garden
Cultural controls in the home landscape and garden involve many aspects of crop and soil management, including crop rotation, time of planting and harvesting, trap cropping and sanitation. Here are some examples:
\ Crop rotation: Do not grow the same kind of produce in the same place each year. Use related crops in one site once every three or four years.
Some related crops are:
- Chives, garlic, leeks, onions and shallots.
- Beets, Swiss chard and spinach.
- Cabbage, cauliflower, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kohlrabi, turnips, rutabagas, Chinese cabbage and mustard.
- Peas, broad beans, snap beans and lima beans.
- Carrots, parsley, celery, celeriac and parsnips.
- Potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes and peppers.
- Pumpkins, squash, watermelon, cucumbersand muskmelons.
- Endive, salsify and lettuce.
\ Timing: Time plantings so the bulk of your crop will avoid the peak of insect infestations. For example, plant squash as early as possible to avoid borers, which lay eggs in July. Keep a record of the dates insect problems occur. Also, by planting warm-weather drops after the soil has warmed, you will avoid problems with seed and root rots, and growth will be more vigorous.
\ Trap cropping: Early maturing bean varieties are planted 10 days to two weeks prior to planting your main bean crop. Adult Mexican bean beetles, bean leaf beetles and stinkbugs are attracted to these early maturing trap crops and are sprayed with an insecticide. This reduces the amount of pesticide needed for your main crop.
\ Sanitation: Remove infected leaves from diseased plants as soon as you see them. Dispose of severely diseased plants before they contaminate others. Clean up crop refuse as soon as you are finished harvesting, if possible, to get rid of the pests' overwintering habitat. Biological control
You can use predators, parasites and pathogens to maintain pest populations below economically injurious levels.
\ Predators: Lady beetles, lacewings and preying mantises are probably the best-known insect predators. Successful use of these natural enemies involves proper timing of releases, the correct rate of release and often providing alternate food sources, habitat or cropping practices to help them survive.
\ Parasites: The tomato hornworm is often seen with a number of white egg cases, a little larger than a grain of rice, on its back. These were laid by a parasitic wasp. Learning to recognize the eggs and larvae of the beneficial insects in your garden will help you take advantage of the natural controls already taking place.
\ Pathogens: Parasitic nematodes have been shown to infect a wide array of hosts, particularly soil pests such as cabbage maggots. Success has been limited for foliar pests.