Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, March 14, 1993 TAG: 9303150600
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: B-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
FOR DO-IT-YOURSELFERS, SOIL TEST IS PLACE TO START
Q: We moved to North Roanoke County and had a yard service last year. We have canceled the lawn service for '93 and are going to attempt to "do it ourselves." The only extra we got last year was a fall core aeration. Where do we start? In what order do we do things? We need some more grass in the back - it's very shady there, with about six tall pines and about 10 mature dogwoods. The front yard is mostly sunny. What about lime? We have a lot of clay. Our goal is a beautiful thick green lawn. Please help. J.O., RoanokeA: I did a brief year-round guide to lawn care in responding to a question from Alleghany County in the Dec. 6, 1992, Dear John column.
Start your program now by taking soil tests from the front and back, if your lawn service did not do that. Then apply recommended materials so that nutrients will be available to good grass plants (existing and new) to avoid acidic soils and the weeds these soils encourage.
The spring seeding is late March or early April, depending on when the soil warms. Because your back yard was aerated last fall, overseeding that area should not be a major problem, unless tree roots are in the way. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for specific consultation on grass seeding. In Roanoke County, call 387-6113.
Q: I have a 34-year-old Washington Hawthorn tree that was attacked by cedar-quince rust disease last summer. Please provide information on the type or brand of fungicide needed to alleviate the disease, the frequency of its application and whether spraying in future seasons will be necessary once the fungus has visibly disappeared. D.H.B., Bedford
A: Cedar hawthorn rust may be caused by a number of several species of fungi that infect both hawthorns and red cedars, as well as other species of junipers. The fungi cannot spread from hawthorn to hawthorn but must alternate between junipers and hawthorns. One solution is to eliminate junipers within a mile of hawthorns, if that is practical.
To chemically control the disease, Virginia Tech recommends fungicide Daconil 2787 be applied at the first sign of the disease and repeated at seven- to 14-day intervals throughout the season. Once the rust infection is cleared up, it can recur a season or two later if cedars (junipers) are growing nearby.
Q: I was given a "peace plant" as a house-warming gift in November. In recent weeks, the edges of most of the leaves have begun turning black. A few of the leaves have died. For awhile, I was misting the leaves when I watered the plant, which was twice a week. But recently, I've quit doing that. So far, I can't tell much difference. Any ideas? M.L., Roanoke
A: I believe the plant you were given is Spathiphyllum, which I've also heard called "White Sails" or "Peace Lily." This is a very durable plant.
The symptoms you noted, as well as that mention of twice-a-week watering, tell me that your plant may be suffering from root rot, brought on by too-frequent watering. My recommendations: Take the plant out of its pot and inspect the roots for dark and/or soft areas; if most of the roots are that way, the plant probably can't be saved. If only a small portion of the roots show symptoms, cut those root parts off, as well as all affected leaves. Then repot the plant using a loose, well-drained potting mix and a container with drainage holes a little bigger than the mass of roots. Next, change your watering program. Check for the need to water by poking a finger about an inch into the soil to see if it's dry or wet. When you are finished, place the plant in bright light but out of hot, direct sunlight.
Q: I am interested in starting a small asparagus patch. What sort of preparation is necessary prior to planting? R.M.G., Radford
A: I'm assuming you have already selected a suitable asparagus variety and have found a reputable source for 1-year-old crowns to be planted. Choose a sunny site with good drainage because the crowns are planted fairly deep.
Prepare the bed now or as early as possible by digging deeply. Break up and remove subsoil, especially if it is needed to improve slow drainage. Your goal will be to create a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide. Loosen the soil in the bottom of the trench. Mix topsoil removed from the trench with organic matter and spread about 2 inches of this mixture in the bottom of the trench before planting the asparagus crowns.
TO P.S. OF FINCASTLE: I've looked and looked, but I can't find an answer to your question regarding your H. Luter Walking Stick Tree without the tree's botanic name. I hope you saved a tag when you planted the tree and can send me a note c/o the newspaper with the tree's scientific name. I'll save your letter until I hear from you.
Got a question about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491.
John Arbogast is the extension agent for Roanoke.