ADEPT CHEF MAKES THE INN A MUST DO

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: FRIDAY, January 8, 1993                   TAG: 9301080363
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long
ADEPT CHEF MAKES THE INN A MUST DO
It's not often I suggest a ride out to the country, but with this review I am, especially when you're in Rockbridge County. On the outskirts of Lexington, up a winding, smoothly paved road, newly remodeled The Inn at Union Run, provides an impressive setting for Chef Daniel Lynch's simple versions of contemporary dishes. Lynch's background includes several years at the Radisson, Washington, D.C., plus a seasonal stint at the Greenbrier, White Sulphur Springs, W.Va.
Since opening in April 1992, The Inn's brief menu has changed every week with a dish seldom repeated and with equal attention given to compatible domestic, state and imported wine selections. All of this takes place under the watchful direction of proprietors Jeanette and Roger Serens. They also participated hands-on in the renovations of the house that Union troops used on June 14, 1863, after the Battle of Lexington.
I've never felt stuffed after a meal here, but I know I've eaten heartily. Although the food is not extraordinary, it is fresh and different. Of an evening, the separate courses comprising a dinner can be totally delicious or span the range from delicious to fair.
But each time I've been, measurable improvements have been obvious. To me, this is an important attribute: It indicates high goals and the desire to please guests with ever-better culinary performances.
The first time my husband and I went for dinner, his main course of linguine with large shrimp ($16) proved to be a mixed bag: The shrimp were indeed large, succulent and perfectly prepared, but the linguine was gluey and coated with an excess of oil or butter.
Within the few weeks following this letdown, noodles emerged from the kitchen perfectly cooked. This was most evident with an entree, linguine with pork stew ($12). Although the blast of its fiery seasonings took me by surprise - there was no mention of them on the menu - the delightful, silken pasta strands were completely enrobed in a volatile tomato sauce with an abundance of tender, flavorful pork batons scattered about and hidden within the mound.
On appearances, I couldn't have asked for more, but with the first mouthful, I also discovered the food was barely warm. (Too cool for a winter dish but a delightful discovery for summertime dining.)
Although I mentioned this condition to the waitress - who happens to be the chef's wife - I didn't relinquish my dish for reheating, because the flavors were compelling, and I eagerly finished every morsel.
Filet mignon ($18) ordered medium but cooked beyond that degree of doneness, proved to be too costly for its small size. However, it was relatively tender and with decent beef flavor. A hunk of herb butter decorating its surface was quickly cast aside because of sourness.
Overall, the subdued lighting in the dining room is acceptable for eating and conversing, but it's annoyingly dim when you're trying to decipher the pale dot-matrix letters on the menu. More definition to the print would begin the evening on a less strained note.
Desserts ($4) tend to be lackluster, with sweetness overwhelming any natural flavors. This is especially true of the white chocolate mousse with pureed peach swirl and the caramel-coated apple cake.
Despite these caveats, most of which are easily remedied, the place has a great deal going for it. Beginning with the house giveaway of a rustic homemade whole wheat bread and its companion spreads of garlicky black-olive and a smooth almond butter, there are many wonderful selections.
Appetizers are most noteworthy. They embrace such delights as a superb homemade lamb sausage with sauteed apples and onions ($4) and the beguiling petite crabmeat timbales adorned with slices of fresh citrus ($5).
Grilled large shrimp with curry sauce ($5) proved to be another one of my favorite starters. Tender shrimp, bolstered with a smokiness from the grill, are served to the side of a deeply flavored curry thickened with tiny, grass-thin slices of onion. So unique and aromatic is this sauce, it almost became a more important food to me than the shrimp.
Another notable starter includes a perfectly seasoned tomato-based fresh salmon and tuna soup ($3). Delightful and delicious, this treasure of a soup should stay on the menu forever.
Sure-fire winners in the entree category are the tender, flavorful and beautiful salmon preparations. Most intriguing was the large rosy filet ($18), one of its edges sporting a ribbon of crushed black peppercorns, a striking contrast in color and flavor to its velvety red wine sauce. Another outstanding salmon dish ($18) features a large, picture-pretty filet enhanced with a sprightly citrus sauce.
Simple vegetable side dishes are crisp without being too crunchy. Thankfully, only a minimum of butter is used as a seasoning now, another improvement that has evolved over the past few weeks.
This is one of the few regional inns I feel comfortable recommending. The location is serene but not remote. The interior, with its meticulously maintained collections, invites interest.
Flowing lace tablecloths, etched crystal stemware and pink ironstone plates fit the place perfectly. The owners, justifiably proud of their 22-seat dining room and restorations, are enthusiastically chatty.
Everyone is so conscientious and sincere about pleasing, you might feel you've been killed with kindness. The reason you'll go, though, is because the food is fresh, orders are individually prepared, and the chef is adept.

Dolores Kostelni has extensive experience in the food industry, having worked as a restaurant consultant, manager and chef.
\ THE INN AT UNION RUN\ Lexington\ 463-9715\ \ DIRECTIONS: From Roanoke, take Interstate 81 north to Exit 180 to U.S. 11 north. Left turn at first light onto Va. 251. Two miles on 251 to Va. 674. The Inn at Union Run is a half-mile on the left.\ \ HOURS: Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. PRICE RANGE: Dinner only, $11-$18.\ \ BEVERAGES: Full-service bar.\ CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED? No.\ \ RESERVATIONS? Yes.\ \ NON-SMOKING SECTION? As requested.

by Bhavesh Jinadra by CNB