Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, February 21, 1993 TAG: 9302220295
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-7 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE:
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
TRY LEAF CUTTINGS FROM ORANGE TREE AGAIN
Q: Late last summer I requested information from Herb Taylor, the extension agent for Alleghany County, regarding propagation of an "out of habitat" orange tree. That request was forwarded to you, and you replied in your column by explaining leaf cuttings. I took several cuttings and set them in the prescribed medium. At present, these cuttings are alive and green, but none has rooted. I reread your article and noticed that you said that the cuttings should not be placed in direct sunlight. I had placed them on a west/northwest window sill six to eight inches from the glass. Where have I gone wrong and what should I do next? I have donated the orange tree to a nursing home but will be allowed to take cuttings until successful. Also, I have a Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata) that has grown above the source of light. How might I root it to discard a portion of the lower trunk? M.K., Eagle RockA: Try again with more cuttings according to the directions given in the column. If you use leaf cuttings, be sure to get the complete leaf stalk and a small portion of the plant branch.
And another way to do it: If the tree you donated produces fruit, take seeds from one of the mature oranges and sow them right away.
You can form a new plant from the top portion of your Dracaena marginata, which is related to the indoor plant commonly called "corn plant," through a method called "air layering." In this method, a wound is made to the upper stem or trunk. Surround the area of the cut with damp, coarse spaghnum moss and wrap it with plastic. Roots eventually should form in the moss. When that occurs, cut off the top portion with roots and pot as a new plant.
Q: Several people have asked you about keeping moles out of lawns. Please tell them to scatter wood ashes on the lawn. Apply just before a rain if possible so the ashes will be washed into the ground. The moles will disappear. Maybe they don't like the lye in ashes. Ashes are also good for a lawn. I put wood ashes on my garden in the winter and work it into the dirt when I plow. It makes the dirt loose and keeps the moles out. I live in Roanoke County and have been using ashes as a mole repellent for several years. It works for me. F.G.F., Roanoke
A: I would caution folks about using this method, because wood ashes react like lime in raising soil pH. If soil test results show that the soil pH needs to be raised, application of ashes over a period of time might be OK. Otherwise, if several applications of wood ashes are made where the pH is not low, the soil will become alkaline, and nutrients that are needed by the grass or vegetable plants will not be available for those plants. Thanks for your letter, though. Other folks may be doing the same with their wood ashes.
Q: I am wondering if a list of plants that deer seem to shun - annuals, perennials and shrubs - has been compiled. I live in an area where these animals are prevalent. I have had some suggestions that seem to work, and I would appreciate others. I realize that when the deer's food supply is low it will eat plants previously ignored. C.D., Huddleston
A: I'm sure that lists have been compiled but not from Cooperative Extension, as far as I know. Most of what I have read suggests having alternative plantings that the deer will eat so other plants will be left alone.
An example would be to leave a section of your property as a little grassy/wild area where the deer, hopefully, would graze and forage.
You might be able to get a list of plants that deer supposedly don't bother by contacting an office of the wildlife division of the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.
Q: For three years, the tomato vines in my summer vegetable garden have looked like boiling water has been poured on them. It was worse this past year. Do you have any idea what the problem is? I had borers in my cabbage. A.C., Independence
A: The symptoms bring to mind an environmental problem, such as cold weather or lightning injury, rather than a disease or pest. However, I would need a lot more information to give a probable cause. That information would include time of year when the scalded appearance occurs; whether it's a sudden problem or one that shows up progressively; variety(ies) of the tomatoes; location (has it occurred when tomatoes are grown repeatedly only in one spot?); and scope of situation (has it occurred on only a few of tomato plants or all or them? are the neighbors' tomatoes also affected at the same time?).
So, I really don't have a recommendation for this coming growing season. Contact your local Grayson County Extension Office for localized information. That office is on the second floor of the County Office Building in Independence, telephone 773-2491.
As for the cabbage borers, take a sample to the extension office if they show up again this season. The only similar pest I am aware of in cabbages would be root maggots.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.