Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, May 16, 1993 TAG: 9305170285
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: C-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
A: Three possible explanations come to mind as to why your azalea won't bloom: One azalea that hasn't bloomed much is just a weak plant, possibly due to inadequate root mass; a stress on that plant, such as poor drainage in the one spot or maybe a big dogwood root right underneath (this may be linked to the weak plant idea); and/or something occurs in late summer right at that one azalea's spot, such as dry soil. Flower buds of azaleas begin to develop in late summer for the next spring but cannot do so if the plant is not vigorous at that time.
Review these suggestions to see which, if any or all, of the three hold true in your azalea planting. Cultural care to remedy the situation should be apparent, although turning a weak azalea plant into a strong one might not be so easy.
Also, it might be helpful to loosen the soil around the azalea for a considerable distance away from the plant. Do this in mid-fall and then remove the plant from the ground to see if the root mass looks adequate for a plant of its size or if that plant has only a few roots. Also see if there are big roots from other plants trying to grow in the same spot as those azalea's.
These suggestions are made with the idea in mind that the poor bloomer is in close proximity to the three azaleas that have bloomed well.
Q: I have had a bad problem with ants that are large and half red, half black. They build nests with thousands of ants in each. I was told to use Sevin dust or diazinon granules. The Sevin did not work. I can't use the\ diazinon granules because I am concerned that the granules are dangerous to my 2-year old son who plays in the yard.
I was told that the ants live off of decaying wood, so I hand-cleared most of the land behind our house. I found a lot of ant nests. We also have a nest of ants in the same place as last year, so many ants that they have trenches as paths. By the summer these ants seem to make it into the house. I have tried about everything that's not poisonous, even burning. Please help me eliminate these ants. D.T., Fincastle
A: The editors of Organic Gardening magazine have said that certain ants can't survive scalding water poured into their nests. Also, they have suggested that an application of diatomaceous earth or rotenone, both organic insecticides, to ant nests will control certain ants. Rotenone has been packaged for consumer use by companies that traditionally have packaged homeowner chemicals. They should be available at popular lawn and garden centers. Even though a product may be listed as "organic," the user still should read and follow the label directions.
Now, about those chemical recommendations you received: Virginia Tech does recommend both Sevin and diazinon for eradication of ant nests. In the "Lawn Insects" section of the Pest Management Guide, Tech suggests both chemicals as a liquid formulation, but in the "Insects in Recreation Areas" section, Tech suggests either the liquid or granular formulation of diazinon.
However, here's the remark from the guide that will help any of the recommended chemicals for ant control to be more effective and safer to people in the yard: "Place the spray or granules in the ant nest openings, then cover with dirt."
None of the current controls for eliminating ant nests will prevent new ant nests from establishing in the same area in the future.
Q: I have a large pyracantha bush at the corner of my porch. Every spring it has lots of blooms followed by green berries, but then the berries always turn black instead of red. What can I do for it? The pyracantha gets morning sun. Mrs. R.B., Roanoke
A: It sounds like your pyracantha is afflicted with the fungus disease called "scab" each year. The scab fungi spends the winter in infected plant parts from the prior summer.
In the spring, spores from the fungus are blown by the wind to new leaves and flower buds. If those leaves and buds are wet for a rather short period of time, infection takes place.
To obtain adequate control of scab, protective sprays must be started as soon as bud growth begins in the spring. The sprays should be repeated at about 10-day intervals for at least four or five applications. For scab on pyracantha, Virginia Tech recommends any of these fungicides: Cleary, Daconil 2787, Dithane, Manzate or Penncozeb. Be sure to follow the label. Also, sanitation, which means raking and removing infected pyracantha parts in the fall, may help to prevent scab on pyracantha.
READERS! PLEASE KEEP THIS COLUMN INTERESTING BY SENDING IN YOUR QUESTIONS. Got a question about your lawn, garden, plants or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491.
Gardener's checklist
Jobs for mid- to late May:
This is the time to begin spraying to prevent loss of this year's squash and pumpkin plants due to squash-vine borer damage, because the adults of this pest deposit eggs on the young stems and leaves. Apply methoxychlor or diazinon to bases of squash or pumpkin plants four times at seven-day intervals beginning as soon as the vines begin to run or the bush begins to grow.
Begin checking the underside of leaves on new growth of azaleas, rhododendrons and mountain laurels, especially those plants that are in partly sunny areas, for the presence of lacebugs. If these pests are found, spray the leaves, especially the underneath side, with Orthene or diazinon. Repeat as necessary.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB