Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, May 23, 1993 TAG: 9305240272
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
A turf-type fertilizer is one that has more nitrogen, which is listed as the first of the three numbers on the bag, than the other two fertilizer numbers. Virginia Tech slightly revised the lawn fertilization recommendations this year. Here's timely information on the new fertilization program.
One big change in the recommendations is the listing of the quality of turf desired: low, medium or high quality, with fertilizer suggested accordingly. The purpose of the new recommendations was to address the concern that we apply too much fertilizer to our plants, thereby contributing to pollution of ground water and streams.
For cool-season grasses at all quality levels, a light application of any turf-type fertilizer that supplies nitrogen fairly quickly can be made now. Most of the readily available, moderately priced lawn fertilizers fall into this category. For a "light" application, look on the turf fertilizer bag, find the suggested spreader settings and reduce the setting given for a regular feeding for the type of lawn spreader you will use.
If you use one of the more expensive, slow-release lawn fertilizers, Tech's new lawn fertilization program for cool-season grasses suggests a late spring application only if you're managing that turf for a high level of quality. Otherwise, skip the spring feeding and wait until fall.
Q: The leaves on my rhododendron are turning brown and drying. What could be causing this and what can I do? E.L., Roanoke
A: There are several things that could be causing this: winter injury, root rot caused by either a fungus or poor drainage, a disorder called "dieback" (if the browning and drying are occurring branch by branch) or physical injury to the rhododendron.
In order to get a correct diagnosis of the problem with the appropriate recommendations, you should observe the rhododendron for clues such as if the browning and drying are occuring over a part of the plant or the whole plant, and if there is anything physically disturbed about the plant. Recall when you first noticed the symptoms, even if it was last year sometime; jot down the approximate age of the rhododendron; and take a representative branch and leaf sample that is showing fresh symptoms but is not completely dead yet to your nursery or garden center if it is a new plant. Take it to your local Cooperative Extension Office if the rhododendron has been established for a while. You are served by the Roanoke City Extension Office, 2728 Colonial Ave. Roanoke. That office prefers samples receiving between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Q: This is concerning the article about cucumbers in the April 25 "Dear John" column. For several years I had the same problem with cucumber vines wilting. I don't think it came from the cucumber bug that eats the leaves, but there is a much larger insect that I call the "stink bug" that is a gray color and odd shaped that I think does the damage. The insect I'm thinking about is shaped like a shield from a coat of arms.
For the past three years I have had good luck with my cucumbers. After the plants come up, I work at least a handful of tobacco into the top inch or so of the soil and around each plant. I use pipe tobacco which is a finer cut, or you can try chewing tobacco. Also, if you water the plants, you can add tobacco to the water and let it sit for several hours to get the strength out of the tobacco; then use this to water the plants. This may be worth a try for A.R.T. of Salem. Mrs. B.L.J., Rocky Mount
A: Thanks for sharing that information. Even though I don't know of any research at Virginia Tech to support the use of tobacco as an insecticide, I do know that there are certain insecticidal properties there.
Regarding the stink bug possibility, I am aware of the greenish, shield-shaped insect called the stink bug that can be a common garden pest late in the gardening season. I don't know about this insect's damage to cucumbers.
However, there is an insect closely related to the so-called stink bug that is called the squash bug. This insect is definitely a pest of vine crops, including cucumbers. The squash bug is a long shield-shaped insect, usually gray-brown in color. This insect does emit a disagreeable odor when handled.
Squash bugs suck large quantities of sap from plants and can kill entire plants if the bugs are numerous enough. For chemical control of squash bugs on cucumbers, Virginia Tech recommends the insecticide Sevin to be applied according to the label, starting when cucumber seedlings emerge and repeated when the squash bug presence makes it necessary.
Gardener's checklist
Jobs for late May:
Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be kept between 2 and 3 inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one-third of the blade in each cutting.
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.
Stay out of the garden when foliage is wet to avoid spreading disease.
After planting seeds from this year's packets, store leftovers in a tightly sealed jar in the refrigerator.
When you see ants crawling about on garden plants, look for aphids as well.
House plants in containers without drainage holes are poor candidates for outside.
Gladiolus grows best in well-drained soil, protected from wind. Bulbs can be planted now.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB