Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: FRIDAY, June 18, 1993 TAG: 9306190077
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: By LELIA ALBRECHT SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Inside, be careful: Scurrying tray-carrying, mostly young people rush in all directions.
We jumped right into the beachy atmosphere and ordered a draft beer. It arrived promptly, in a mug frosted and foaming. In no time, our waitress came with appetizers that she had suggested.
We each ordered from the "Combo Platter, choice of 3," choosing whatever the other hadn't from a list that included fish, shrimp, scallops, crab cakes, oysters, and clam strips ($13.95).
We traded back and forth, and it all tasted straight from the ocean.
Then, I convinced myself (easily) that the place wasn't being given a fair trial unless I tasted the she crab soup ($1.95), which was a special that night and, I was told, not often on the menu. It very rarely is anywhere else around here, either. Too, she crabs have their own season.
The soup came next, and again, very promptly. In the brief time that we'd been in Bill's, we'd already become enamored, not only of the place itself, but also of our speedy little waitress, who sometimes seemed to be skimming around on roller skates.
The she crab soup wasn't of the creamy variety, but deeply red. Its broth was thick with bits of fish and small chunks of crab.
I made every bite last as long as it could. It was pure heaven.
While we waited for our main courses, a nice little lagniappe arrived - a small plate holding a good-sized dab of coleslaw, a few perfectly greaseless french fries, and two crunchy hush puppies. "Is this all we'll get for our side dish?" I mumbled to myself. That was, until the waitress explained that it was "just a small forerunner to keep you going" until the rest of the meal arrived.
As my main dish, I'd asked if the soft-shell crab were really fresh ("4 Prime, $9.95," the menu read). With that in mind, and because they're so rarely seen on restaurant menus, I ordered them. I've never tasted any as succulent and fresh as these were. Too, I think the good price is remarkable. I easily could have eaten a bushel.
Another rave: Bill's way of frying his catch. One visit, I did a real no-no (according to my doctor): I ordered a "seafood platter" that included the whole catch of the day - shrimp, fish, crab cakes, oysters, scallops, and clam strips ($16.95). With the choice of broiled or fried, I firmly and defiantly ordered fried.
But had I died then and there, I would have departed straight for seafood heaven. The breading, which certainly isn't that but the coating of whatever it is, was marvelously crisp and totally devoid of grease.
When you make the trek to Fincastle, keep in mind that whatever seafood or special mentioned here is apt to be different. I once made the fascinating mistake of trying to find out from Bill how and when his specials might change.
There followed a half-hour speech on the subject of what fish were where and the exact month and almost the exact time of day each species gets together.
Bill is always there, or his supplier is, and that, in a fish egg, is how the meals you have at Bill's come to you tasting as though they're fresh out of the Atlantic, or Pacific, or Gulf of Mexico, or wherever. Between trips, Bill is always in his kitchen, or tries to be. When he's not, a superbly trained right hand is.
Lelia Albrecht has written The New York Times, The Washington Post and numerous magazines.
Bill's Seafood Shoppe & Raw Bar\ Fincastle\ Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday\ Beverages: Beer, small selection of wine, mixed drinks\ Price range: Lunch $1.95-5.95; dinner $7.95-18.95\ Credit cards: VISA, Mastercard. Local checks only\ Reservations: No, but state preference.\ Handicap accessible: No.
Take Interstate 81 North from Roanoke to the Fincastle exit at U.S. 220. Go north to Fincastle, and Bill's is on the left).
by CNB