Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, June 23, 1993 TAG: 9308260257
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 3 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Food stylist/author Diane Simone Vezza says that potatoes are perfect in many ways: nutrient-dense; high in vitamins, minerals and dietary fiber; cholesterol-free and low in fat and sodium. She notes that agriculturally, an acre of potatoes yields as much food as two acres of grain, and in less time.
Vezza also says, and proves with more than 100 delectable recipes, that potatoes are versatile and not all the same.
Vezza explains that waxy potatoes are low in starch and high in water content - at their best boiled, steamed, pan fried or in salads. Floury potatoes, starchier and containing less water, are most appealing when baked, mashed or deep fried.
To determine a potato's type, combine 11 parts water with one part salt and add the puzzling spud. Floury ones sink; waxy ones float.
Vezza doesn't say what happens with all-purpose potatoes, which have roughly equal parts water and starch.
Daniel Neel, Southwest Regional Market Development Manager with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, says all-purpose Kennebecs are the standard Virginia cultivars. Atlantics - which he says are great for chips but just so-so for regular eating - also are big crops.
More than 95 percent of the state's white potatoes are grown on the Eastern shore. But there also are crops in the southwest region at Bent Mountain and in Carroll, Patrick and Smyth counties. Most of the state's white potato distribution occurs between June and the end of August.
Ron Morris, a researcher and associate professor of horticulture at Virginia Tech, says that for about the past three years the school has been conducting experiments with yellow-fleshed potatoes, especially Yukon golds. About 15 such cultivars are being tried.
"Many people prefer them over the white potatoes," Morris says. "They're more buttery. They're denser and not as dry. They feel more like they have oil - they're creamier. And visually, they're just beautiful. They really are yellow."
He says yellow varieties are preferred over whites in many parts of Europe, especially in the Netherlands, Germany and France.
Yellow potatoes, usually buttery-colored Yukon golds, are available at a few local supermarkets. Or gardeners with the necessary space and wherewithal can find seeds for yellows in season at Southern States cooperatives and perhaps at other garden-supply outlets.
Other novelty varieties mentioned by Vezza, such as the long, thin, pale yellow Lady Finger; tiny, bluish-fleshed Peruvian Purple; or orange-pink Pink Pearl, sound intriguing but probably will be hard to find locally.
Whatever color or type, though, potatoes are still pretty perfect, and it's hard to improve on that.
Diane Simone Vezza says old-fashioned mashed potatoes are now included on the menus of some of the world's most elegant restaurants. She demoisturizes the potatoes and preheats the butter and cream for this classic version from her book.
Down-Home Mashed Potatoeso
4 large baking potatoes, peeled
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup butter or margarine
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the potatoes and enough water to cover in a 4-quart saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low; cover and simmer 30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Drain. Return the potatoes to the saucepan and shake them over heat to remove any excess moisture.
Into a large bowl, press the hot potatoes through a ricer, or mash well. In a small saucepan, heat the cream and butter until warm; stir into the mashed potatoes along with the parsley, salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Makes six servings
In the unlikely event that you have any leftovers, Vezza suggests uses from basic to elegant.
Fried Mashed Potatoes
2 cups leftover mashed potatoes
1/4 cup snipped chives
1/2 cup dried seasoned bread crumbs
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter or margarine
In a medium bowl, combine the mashed potatoes and the chives. Shape the mixture into four 31/2-inch round patties about 1/2 inch thick. Coat the patties with the seasoned bread crumbs.
In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, heat the oil and butter and, in it, cook the patties until they are golden on both sides, about five minutes, turning once.
Makes four servings.
and Ale Peasant Breado
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup mashed potatoes
1 large egg
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 large garlic clove, crushed
1/4 cup ale or beer
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, potatoes, egg, Parmesan cheese, baking powder, salt and garlic. Stir in the ale.
Using your hands, knead the mixture until it forms a round loaf. Place on a small greased cookie sheet. With a knife, cut slashes in the top of the dough. Bake 45 minutes or until golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped with your fingers. Remove to a wire rack to cool.
Makes one loaf
Cheesy Potato Puffs
1 cup mashed potatoes
1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 cup dried bread crumbs
1 large egg, beaten
3 cups vegetable oil for frying
Spicy hot mustardo
In a medium bowl, combine the mashed potatoes, Cheddar cheese, parsley, caraway seeds, salt and cayenne pepper. Shape the mixture, one tablespoonful at a time, into balls. Roll the potato balls in the bread crumbs, then in the beaten egg, and again in the bread crumbs.
In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, heat the vegetable oil to 325F. on a deep-fat thermometer. Fry the potato balls 2 to 3 minutes, until lightly browned and crisp. Remove the potato puffs to paper towels to drain. Serve immediately with spicy hot mustard.
Makes 14 hors d'oeuvres
Yukon golds will really shine in this dip that doubles as a sandwich spread.
Mashed Potato and Garlic Dip
1 1/2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, drained and rinsed
One 10 1/2-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Toasted pita triangleso
Place the potatoes and enough water to cover in a 2-quart saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low; cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.
Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, blend the garbanzo beans, olive oil, garlic cloves and salt.
Drain the potatoes, reserving 1/2 cup of potato water. In a large bowl, mash the potatoes. Add the garbanzo mixture, the reserved 1/2 cup potato water and the chopped parsley, and combine until well mixed.
Serve with toasted pita triangles.
Makes 3 cups dip.
All recipes from "The Perfect Potato," by Diane Simone Vezza, Villard Books, $16 trade paperback
by CNB