ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, June 27, 1993                   TAG: 9306250208
SECTION: CURRENT                    PAGE: NRV-3   EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY 
SOURCE: M.J. DOUGHERTY STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: CHRISTIANSBURG                                LENGTH: Medium


IT PLEASES EVERYONE

The Morning Glory Cafe in the heart of Cambria has a little bit of everything.

The tablecloths are from the 1930s and 1940s. The tables they cover came from a surplus sale at the International Monetary Fund in Washington. The chairs at the tables are white plastic indoor-outdoor furniture found at discount stores.

"It has an appeal to it," said Tom Knoebel, one of the partners in the cafe, which seats 28 inside and 10 outside. "A woman came in last week and said it was nice to come to a place that wasn't overdone."

But what makes this eclectic mix work is what goes on the table - the food. The Morning Glory Cafe has something for everyone.

"We appeal to wide variety of tastes," said Kimberlee Christman, the other partner in the cafe. "We have some ethnic things, some vegetarian things and a lot of good things."

The ethnic goods include the egg and cheese timbale in the Morning Glory Special breakfast, a derivative of the Southern fried egg breakfast. The Rise and Shine Porridge shows the influence of Christman's Scottish grandparents.

Popular lunch sandwich choices range from the Veggie Cornucopia to the more traditional Turkey & Swiss. How to have those sandwiches is a decision itself - the Morning Glory has nine different breads.

Then there are the desserts. My Mother's Chocolate Pie is an appropriate name for a specialty that is in high demand.

Some taste tempters may vary with the season. Right now, peach cobbler is popular. Rice pudding and fresh fruit are among the other choices.

And the food need not even be on the menu to be served.

"We had someone come in and order a sandwich that wasn't on the menu," said Knoebel, who once managed a pizzeria in western New York state. "But if it's within the framework of what we serve, we can make it."

Suggestions also are welcome. Recently, the soup du jour was vichyssoise. The cold potato soup had been requested by a customer.

No matter what the food is, it will be fresh, homemade and healthy. Produce is delivered daily. Everything but the yeast breads is made from scratch in the cafe's kitchen. Nothing is fried.

"Once a woman said to me there is no healthy Southern food," said Christman, who operated her own catering business in the Washington, D.C., area for seven years. "I take offense to that. Southern food can be very healthy. I'm trying to take what I know and make the food as healthy as I can."

The food is also affordable. The most expensive thing on the menu is the Combination Special for $3.75. That lunch includes a sandwich, salad and treat. The most expensive breakfast is the Morning Glory Special, which consists of an egg and cheese timbale, fresh seasonal fruit and a choice of bread, for $3.25.

"We didn't want people to leave hungry or to have to spend more than $5," said Knoebel.

Since the cafe opened in early February, it has undergone a few subtle changes, including enhanced decor. A regular clientele of business people, local residents and students has kept the Morning Glory busy from the beginning.

Groups, including Habitat for Humanity and Virginia Mountain Housing, have had formal meetings. Informal gatherings take place almost on a daily basis.

"We didn't expect to be this popular this soon," Christman said. "We thought there would be days when no one would come in. But that hasn't happened."

The cafe, specializing in breakfast and lunch, is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. It is closed on Sunday.

For Knoebel, the cafe brings with it a certain amount of responsibility for the community.

"This is in tradition of the taverns and cafes where people met to eat and talk," he said.

Meanwhile, for Christman, the Morning Glory is the realization of a lifelong dream.

"I've always had a dream of opening up a small neighborhood cafe," she said. "I've had the dream since I was 14 and I'm 36 now - so it's been a long wait to make that dream come true. This is exactly what I wanted."



 by CNB