Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: FRIDAY, October 8, 1993 TAG: 9310070126
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
In the line of duty, I was asked to roam restaurants in and around the Roanoke Valley, eating and enjoying myself, all the while focusing on selecting my 25 favorite dishes and naming the places that served them. What I thought would be easy developed into lists that could go on and on.
No matter how much I tossed the evaluations about, some of the results were always a tie between the same two restaurants. Because compromises seemed unfair, I've decided to mention all of the dishes and places I favor.
Seven of my selections will give you change from a $5, 11 are less than $10, two are under $15, seven cost below $20, and only one is close to $25.
Here are my favorites . . .
UNDER $5
ADULT BURGER: 309 First St. The Wolf Burger. Thick and beefy with rivulets of juices running from its medium-rare interior into the English muffin. This one's not for kids.
BARBECUE: Carolina B-B-Q-Shack and Three Lil' Pigs. It just depends on what part of town I'm in when the yearning strikes for chopped pork sandwiches with just enough vinegary cole slaw on soft, soft buns.
VEGETARIAN SANDWICH: Buck Mountain Grille. Dragon's Tooth, a totally bewitching sandwich on Wildflour's whole wheat bread, layers freshly fried Parmesan-coated eggplant slices with grilled mushrooms, onions and green peppers.
GOURMET SUB: Georjoe's. Several plump, lightly crumbed, golden fried oysters line up neatly on a yard of French bread with a cushion of lettuce and just enough of Georjoe's special zingy sauce.
GREEK SALAD: Star City Cafe. Impeccably fresh ingredients, the right combination of soft and crunchy lettuces in mouthsized pieces and the well-balanced dressing make this one of the best.
CHICKEN SALAD SANDWICH: Star City Cafe. Chunky pieces of honest-to-goodness real chicken bound with just enough mayo on whatever bread I select. It's the All-American original.
LIVER AND ONIONS: Longhorn Steaks. Tender, juicy and delicious, the liver is expertly cooked to my requested degree of doneness. I also look forward to the accompanying crisply grilled, thickly sliced sweet onions.
UNDER $10
SALAD AND BREAD STICKS: Olive Garden. For dollar value, fiber, freshness, flavor and goodness, this can't be beat. When I'm running late, I bring a takeout containerfull home with me. The soft, tasty breadsticks reheat beautifully.
CINNAMON BUNS and GREENS: Old Country Buffet. This combination might not be everyone's cup of tea, but it's a grand lunch for me. I'd walk a mile for those roly-poly buns.
NATIONAL ETHNIC SPECIALTY: Carlos. Feijoda, the Brazilian national dish, provides a tasty plateful of black beans simmered with pork, sausage and beef. It's a popular Saturday special that I know requires an early arrival at the restaurant if I want my fair share.
CHICKEN FAJITA SALAD: Applebee's. Pretty-as-a-picture presentation of garden greens and charbroiled chicken breast with a cascade of cheddar cheese, green onions, sour cream and lightly spiced pico de gallo sauce.
GRILLED CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD.: Applebee's. A stunning and delicious bowlful of crisp, fresh, fork-sized pieces of Romaine lettuce topped with slices of wonderfully tender, charbroiled chicken breast, grated Parmesan cheese and just enough of a creamy, garlic-spiked dressing.
STEAK SANDWICH: Longhorn Steaks. Generously sized, tender, beefy and expertly cooked on a flattop grille.
VEGETARIAN PIZZA: Frank's Pizza and Subs. An attractively composed pizza with green peppers, onions, mushrooms and black olives peeking out from under a blanket of molten mozzarella on a featherlight but substantial crust.
GENERAL TSO'S CHICKEN: Mai Tai. A marvelous combination of fried dark-meat chicken chunks enrobed with that magical, tangy, yet slightly sweet sauce.
A BOWL OF SPAGHETTI: Luigi's. Spaghetti or linguine marinara. Sometimes all I want is a bowlful of spaghetti cooked al dente with a basil-seasoned tomato sauce that tastes as if it were just made. I get it here.
CALZONE: Mac & Bob's. A light crust gently brushed with olive oil and flecked with herbs enrobes a chubby, beautifully layered stuffing of ham, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.
OMELET: Oscar's at the Sheraton, Sunday Brunch. Before my eyes, the chef creates a tender, puffy, full-of-goodness Denver omelet. Of course, the gentle melodies rippling from the piano in the background add to the beauty.
UNDER $15
SEAFOOD STEW: Ipanema in Blacksburg. Moqueca, an intensely flavored, typical Brazilian seafood stew, served in an individual cauldron, overflows with pieces of white fish, shrimp, scallops and clams in a zippy sauce made from tomatoes, palm oil and coconut milk.
CRAB CAKE: Buck Mountain Grille. At least 6 to 7 inches across and about a half-inch thick, this golden cake of pure crabmeat is sauteed to nutty perfection. A classic.
UNDER $20.
MOUNTAIN TROUT: Michel Cafe, Clifton Forge. A lovely beurre blanc sauce and a scattering of crisply sauteed almonds glorify a basic pan-fried Allegheny Mountain trout.
PEKING-STYLE DUCK: Szechuan. Tender, marvelously succulent meat covered with crisp, complexly flavored skin. Warm pancakes, plum sauce and scallion brushes complete the perfection. For a holiday party, I order several of these with all the trimmings.
SURF AND TURF: Maxwell's. Nothing's finer than the lobster-stuffed filet au poivre vert. Deliciously tender filet mignon stuffed with snowy lobster and enrobed with a cognac-laced cream peppercorn sauce.
CHINESE LOBSTER: Chengdu Pavilion. A delicate feast of lobster chunks floating on a sea of mushrooms in a fragrant, pale sauce.
UNDER $25.
MIXED GRILLE: Alexander's. Although the components may change every week - sometimes salmon, shrimp and andouille sausage, or perhaps baby lamb chop and filet mignon - count on succulence and perfection.
\ Where to find the finest\ ALEXANDER'S: 105 S. Jefferson St., 982-6983
APPLEBEE'S: 4942 Valley View Blvd., 563-5213
BUCK MOUNTAIN GRlLLE: at the Old Parkway Restaurant, U.S. 220 south, 776-1830
CAROLINA B-B-Q-SHACK: 4206 Williamson Road N.W., 362-1553
CHENGDU PAVILION: Southwest Plaza, 2050 Electric Road, 989-4519
CARLOS: 312 Market St. S.E., 345-7661
FIRST STREET FINE FOOD & DRINK: Market Square, 343-1079
FRANK'S PIZZA & SUBS:4208G Hunting Hills Plaza, 989-4440
GEORJOE'S SEAFOOD SUB SHOP: 515 South 2nd St. Vinton, 343-9900
IPANEMA: 107 Ellett Road, Blacksburg, 951-4501
LONGHORN STEAKS:Tanglewood Mall 4490 Electric Road, 776-3011
LUIGI'S ITALIAN GOURMET RESTAURANT: 3301 Brambleton Ave. S.W., 989-6277
MAI TAI: 3944 Brambleton Ave., 772-0888
MAC & BOB'S: 361 E. Main St. Salem, 389-5999
MAXWELL'S: 1204 N. Main St. Blacksburg, 552-3300
MICHEL CAFE: 424 E. Ridgeway, Clifton Forge, 862-4119
OLD COUNTRY BUFFET: Tanglewood Square 4335 Starkey Road, 776-0716
OLIVE GARDEN: Valley View Mall, 362-0417
OSCAR'S at the SHERATON: I-581 and Hershberger Road, 362-4500
STAR CITY CAFE: 310 Second St. S.W., 344-2774
SZECHUAN: 5207 Bernard Drive, 989-7947
THREE LIL' PIGS BARBEQUE: Market Square Building, 345-7447
Dolores Kostelni has worked as a restaurant consultant, manager and chef and taught cooking in the Roanoke Valley for 10 years.\
by CNB