ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, November 10, 1993                   TAG: 9311110487
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES STAFF WRITER
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


COOKING IN CLASS

ON a recent morning, 15 William Fleming high school culinary arts students gathered around their instructor, Jean Lawhorn, to receive their work-station assignments. Some students wore the bills of their hair-restraining caps upside down; others' were turned to one side. One young man's baker's pants rode fashionably low on his hips.

Yet, all eyes and attention were riveted on Lawhorn as she ran through a list of final instructions: "

Make sure you use all-purpose flour. Use a thermometer to make sure that your water is not over 130 degrees. Break up the butter before you add it."

These small details would almost guarantee the successful outcome of the sweet yeast dough the students would that day attempt for the first time. Patient and proper handling would transform the dough's rough edges to smooth perfection.

Lawhorn and the Roanoke Valley's other two culinary arts instructors - Katherine Kramer at Patrick Henry High School's Gibboney Technical Center anda Brenda Jamison at the Roanoke County Career Center - similarly hope by the end of their programs to smooth and mold their students into young adults ready to assume entry-level food service jobs. They, however, have no recipe for guaranteed success.

Patrick Henry's culinary arts program, with 15 students, and Roanoke County's, with five, just started this year. However, since 1989 the county has offered a food service program for eighth- and ninth-graders. The flagship program at Fleming started in the late 1960s, and was called food service occupations. Lawhorn has taught it for the past five years and last year won approval to change its name to culinary arts, which she said better reflects what's involved.

Students not only learn about food safety, nutrition, menu planning and the principles behind the foods, but also do some catering - mostly within the school system - develop recipes of their own and strive to present foods that have both eye and taste appeal.

Recent industry reports list food services among the top 10 growth occupations during the next century. The goal of all three programs is to prepare students for entry-level jobs in the food industry.

"Some go in as dishwashers or helpers; some get jobs in fast-foods restaurants; some start out as cook trainees; some go for further training at one of the culinary schools such as Johnson & Wales University in Norfolk or Charleston, South Carolina," Lawhorn said.

There are variances in the levels at which they enter the food industry. But Lawhorn stressed that whether it's a special-education student who masters setting up a sink or an especially talented student who wins a cooking scholarship, each job is important to a kitchen's operation.

The kitchen used by the Fleming students is fully equipped and has a valid restaurant license. Lawhorn said the facility regularly gets high marks during Health Department inspections.

There are no prerequisites for entering the schools' programs. Some students enjoy cooking and think they'd like a career in the food industry. Others are steered to the program by their guidance counselors.

Fleming students Shanatia Barksdale and Keadra English both say they'd like to go into catering, perhaps even open a business together. Meyshelle Grogan says she'd like to become a pastry chef, and Eric Saunders says he'd like to be a chef, although he isn't yet sure which designation he'd want.

Angela Proffitt, who works as a server in a cafeteria, says she's not sure what food career, if any, she'd be interested in. Likewise, Sarah Comer and Dan Hong Zhang enjoy working with food, but haven't yet set specific goals.

Matthew Karnes says he doubts that he'll have a food profession. He plans to enter the Marines after high school. "I just like to cook, but not as a career," he said.

Michel Mourou, an exchange student from Sweden, will enter training at a restaurant school when he returns to Stockholm in June. He will definitely work in the food industry, he said.

Lawhorn, who teaches 30 students in two classes plus 22 students in an introductory class, said she tries to make sure the students have an accurate idea of what to expect.

"I don't deceive them. It's hard work. They have to be energetic, think on their feet and be able to take verbal directions. During the two- to three-year program - depending on whether they also take the introductory course - students complete a list of competencies. Classes meet two hours daily. The final exam is preparing a recipe of the student's choice, but which must be preapproved by the instructor.

A lot of the training is from hands-on experience, which Lawhorn said she tries to intersperse with reading, video materials and field trips to institutional kitchens, food shows and other related outings.

Since her background was in clothing and textiles, Lawhorn said she has been learning right along with the students. She gains some knowledge from the professionals in a cooks' apprenticeship class she teaches. She also credits members of the American Culinary Federation's Southwestern Virginia Chef's Association and other food professionals for answering questions and helping to judge culinary arts program competitions.

But perhaps her biggest reward has been in seeing a few students achieve particular success: like Denise Casey, former alternative education student Rodney King, or David Lee, who won a $1,000 scholarship for his recipe for turkey parmesan. All three students are now doing well at Johnson & Wales, Lawhorn said.



 by CNB