ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, December 8, 1993                   TAG: 9312070196
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: By DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


A COOKBOOK FOR CHRISTMAS IS ALWAYS IN GOOD TASTE

As Santa swoops through the starry sky down to the lower 48, he finds himself reminiscing about the superb meals Mrs. Claus had prepared for him from this year's assortment of cookbooks. Such variety. What joyful flavors. He laughs out loud at his huge bag bulging with more than 300 newly published cookbooks and the promise he had made to her about bringing back several of them. He remembers well how they were both smitten by . . . "Potager," by Georgeanne Brennan.

Based on the French country tradition of cooking from the kitchen garden, this charming book celebrates seasonal abundance and harvests. Recipes for delicious seafood, meat, poultry, vegetable and dessert options sparkle with fresh flavors, bright colors, balance and simplicity. Brennan thoughtfully provides directions for you to create your own potager. (Chronicle Books, $29.95/hardcover/$18.95/softcover.)

"Italy in Small Bites," by Carol Field.

Field knows her Italian food. Devoted to the most favorite of Italian creations, the between-meal snacks called merende and spuntini, this extraordinary cookbook exposes these "little meals" for what they are: irresistible, simple, versatile and delicious. Two merende pizza and foccacia have already taken American appetites by storm. This well-rounded, intelligently written collection of workable recipes, includes several breads with companion spreads, toppings, dips and condiments, plus vegetables, soups, cookies, eggs and comforting puddings, everything the home cook can easily serve forth. (William Morrow & Co., $20., hardcover.)

"The Italian Baker," by Carol Field.

A celebration of Italian goodness and goodies from simple rustic breads to luscious pizza and herb-flecked foccace to sublime cakes, tempting cookies and sophisticated pastries in clearly written, easily followed recipes. An informative, enlightening text with enticing descriptions that take you on a tour of Italian tastebuds. Delectable results make this a winner that will be used many times over. (William Morrow & Co., $30/hardcover.)

"Cooking Under Wraps," by Nicole Routhier.

We all love wrapped foods - tortilla, burritos, crepes, turnovers, blintzes and dumplings. Routhier goes beyond the familiar and gives us more than 200 recipes from around the world with step-by-step techniques for wrapping appetizers, entrees and desserts. Although not complicated because of explicit directions and clean line drawings, many dishes are time-consuming. Among the spectacular creations hiding a delectable surprise are green pasta crab rolls with spinach sauce, roast sesame pork in phyllo, a homey veal loaf wrapped around creamy, herby mashed potatoes and an absolutely luscious, gorgeous barbecued chicken in corn bread. More sophisticated than the usual company-style casseroles, these dishes lend themselves to advance preparation and are ready for eating when you want them. Engaging and useful. (William Morrow Co., $27.95/hardcover.)

"The Simple Art of Perfect Baking," by Flo Braker.

An updated, revised edition of the classic that's a must for the beginner and experienced baker. The art of successful cake baking is exacting and frequently unforgiving. By following Braker's in-depth information, thorough, careful explanations and intelligent simplification, smashing results are guaranteed every time. (Chapters Publishing Ltd., $24.95/hardcover, $19.95 trade paperback.)

"A Treasury of Southern Baking," by Prudence Hilburn.

They're all in here, all of those recipes for cakes, cobblers, muffins, biscuits, breads and pies. These are what Grandma made, the ones that never got written down, the sweet traditions Virginians used to serve religiously after every meal. The very old fashioned biscuit-making technique called "squeezing" fascinates me as much as Hilburn's relaxed style. Indispensable. (HarperPerennial, $15/softcover.)

"Trattoria," by Patricia Wells.

Italians are devoted to their trattoria, those small family restaurants where the freshest foods are simply and quickly prepared. Through more than 150 clear recipes that blanket the heart and soul food of Italy, Wells demonstrates her understanding and appreciation of the enormous variety within this richly flavored cuisine. (So greedy was I to finish the leftovers of orange, sage and mushroom Risotto that I stealthily rolled out of bed at 2 a.m. just to feast on the cold remains of this splendid dish.) (William Morrow Co., $25/hardcover.)

"Biscotti," by Lou Seibert Pappas.

More than 25 delicious, easy-to-make biscotti, those twice-baked Italian cookies that have become the rage all over the country. Each recipe fills a single page and most are enlivened by Piet Halbertstadt's winsome illustrations. (Chronicle Books, $9.95/hardcover.)

"Basil," by Janet Hazen.

Twenty-nine delightful clearly written recipes from around the world capture the essence of this aromatic herb that enhances all other ingredients and dishes. Appetizers, soups, salads, entrees and delectable desserts captivate your tastebuds, while Pearl Beach's mystical illustrations enchant. (Chronicle Books, $9.95/hardcover.)

"Pillsbury's The Complete Book of Baking," Jackie Sheean, senior editor.

Seven hundred streamlined recipes designed for home cooks with busy lives. Included are favorite American goodies like chocolate cake in all its delicious fatty glory, but also in a recipe trimmed of its luscious badness and calories. Each recipe contains an abundance of proven secrets that guarantee perfection. It's a beautiful, thoroughly practical baking encyclopedia for beginner and seasoned cook alike. (Viking, $25/hardcover.)

"The Birthday Cake Book," by Sylvia Thompson.

Everyone's birthday is special, and Thompson indulges us with 20 perfectly wonderful cakes. Each page glows with a tempting recipe, the beauty of a classic poem and an array of dazzling tidbits about birthday customs and cakes throughout the ages. Brooke Scudder's whimsical illustrations highlight it all. (Chronicle Books, $12.95/hardcover.)

"Contemporary Italian," by Robert Helstrom.

The first restaurant I head for in San Francisco is Kuleto's, and Chef Robert Helstrom's food is the reason why. Helstrom creates dishes based on Italian tradition but sparked with an American flair: ravioli plumped with delicate smoked salmon, braised rabbit fragrant with lemon and olives, to name a few of my favorites. Not a typical "restaurant cookbook," these 80 recipes have been developed especially for the home kitchen. (Harlow & Ratner, $24.95/hardcover.)

"Napa Valley, The Ultimate Winery Guide," by Antonia Allegra.

For everyone who wishes to visit the Napa Valley and for those who yearn to return, this book features the information, history and directions you'll need for touring the wineries by town, region, season and special interests. Page after page of Richard Gillette's panoramic photography heightens the pleasure of Allegra's prose. (CHRONICLE BOOKS, $18.95/softcover.)

"Anne Willan's Look & Cook," series by Anne Willan.

Each recipe has detailed instructions, full color photographs, plus helpful hints and explanations of classic cooking techniques applied to today's approach to food. I've used two books, "Superb Salads" and "Delicious Desserts," and the format is the same for both: recipes begin with the application of simple, basic techniques that gradually progress to compound. No need to worry because Willan is with you every step of the way, explaining visually through close-up photographs and verbally, how each stage should look and with warnings about pitfalls to avoid. Indispensable for reference and the continuing culinary education of the serious home cook. (Dorling Kindersley. $19.95 each/hardcover.)

"The Splendid Table," by Lynne Rosetto Kasper.

A splendid tour of the Emilia-Romagna and how its history and geography influenced the development of the renowned cuisine we appreciate today. Kasper's dishes captivate while her research excites. An award-winning book. (William Morrow & Co. $30./hardcover.)

"Superfoods: 300 Recipes for Foods That Heal Mind and Body," by Dolores Riccio.

Written in an easily referenced alphabetical style and covering a wide-range of foods, this informative must-have book is for everyone interested in why and how certain foods are beneficial. Separating fact from myth, Riccio presents creative recipes supported by the most recent documented data on foods that are actual health-builders. Not a berry and nut book, but one that includes pork, beef, chicken and lots of the foods we love in healthful, delectable dishes that span the globe in scope and style. (Warner Books, $26.95/hardcover.)

"The New American Farm Cookbook," by Linda and Fred Griffith.

An important, information-packed book about the new breed of scientific farmers and life on their organic farms. Although more than 200 recipes accompany the text, these are secondary to the dominant theme of pure, good-tasting foods nurtured without pesticides, chemical fertilizers and hormones. Our wholesome foods for the millennia encompass tilapia maturing in 150,000 gallon tanks, cultivated varieties of antique fruits and heritage vegetables, farm-raised, bacteria-free fish and shellfish and naturally tender, flavorful, stimulant-free fowl and meats. (Viking Penguin, $30./hardcover.)

"365 Ways to Prepare for Christmas," by David E. Monn.

Last but not least, a sensible guide for anyone who wishes the big day were two weeks later. Not only a serious yet fun-to-read 12 month think-ahead strategy but also recipes and straightforward talk about what's necessary for decorating the house, wrapping gifts and creating the aura to make it all look easy. Enjoyable. (HarperCollins, $16.95/wire binding, washable cover.)



 by CNB