Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, January 30, 1994 TAG: 9401310299
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E-14 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
A: The kind of weather we have been through this January can cause three types of damage to boxwoods as well as other leafy evergreen plants: freezing of plant cells, breakage and desiccation or drying caused particularly by winds. Thus, protection to prevent the damage would be by whatever practical means come to mind.
Most of us have seen those wooden shelters built over boxwoods to prevent snow or ice load from breaking them apart. This is especially effective when boxwoods are located just out from the eaves of the house where snow cascading off the roof or ice falling from the gutters could be devastating.
It is possible to tie a boxwood into shape with burlap strips or string so that a heavy snow or ice load doesn't split the shape apart.
To prevent desiccation, construct wind breaks. We are at the mercy of Mother Nature when it comes to freezing damage during severe chills. The bottom line for all of this is that plants that go through the summer and fall in good condition, not stressed by drought or other adverse conditions, will have better chances of surviving winter conditions.
Since this column is geared toward consumer horticulture topics, I might not have the best reply to your question about burning pine logs in your fireplace.
I do know that burning pine in a wood stove causes creosote to accumulate on the inside of the flue, thus potentially causing chimney fires. Supposedly though, pine logs that are many years dry will not produce much creosote.
I found information that will help answer your question in an old leaflet from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Forest Service entitled "Firewood for Your Fireplace." According to that, the firewood ratings for Eastern White Pine are low for relative amount of heat produced, medium for producing heavy smoke and fair for overall general rating. My own experiences with pine in the fireplace will attest to that.
Q: I recently read about a no-till, mulched method of gardening where the garden is covered with a 6-inch layer of mulch (hay, straw, leaves, etc.). The mulch is moved to plant the row or spot with seed. The idea is that tilling mulch into the soil will enable hay seed to sprout and harm the earthworms that are so good for the soil. What is your opinion of this method? Also, my garden is covered with a "mulch" taken from the compost pile consisting of hay and manure from farm livestock. I have sown crimson clover and winter rye and intended to till this under soon. Please give your thoughts. L.T.S., Roanoke
A: That no-till, mulched method of gardening has some merits, but there needs to be a method as part of the overall plan for replenishing the organic materials in the soil, as your second question addresses.
As you know, organic matter in the soil consists of the remains of plants and animals. The organic matter is changed to humus, and this stuff does get used up. So, I do like to hear gardeners trying methods to reduce the tilling of their garden soil, since tilling increases the rate of organic matter decomposition in the soil by allowing more air into the soil. Earthworms should not be harmed by an occasional necessary tilling.
Your gardening practice of cover cropping and working in hay and manure sounds like a great way of increasing and/or replenishing the organic matter level in your soil. However, both hay and fresh manure can have nasty weed seeds, which I'm sure you're already aware of.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please do not send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
Gardeners' checklist
(Jobs to be done in late January or early February)
Gardeners who like to start their own vegetable transplants should sow seeds of broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbage indoors or in the home greenhouse now in order to have strong seedlings to plant out in mid- to late March (based on Roanoke's average last frost date of April 30).
These hardy vegetables must grow in the garden before the weather turns hot. Some suggested varieties (not a complete list) are: Packman, Green Valiant, and Green Goliath Broccoli; Jade Cross Brussels sprouts; Stonehead, Round Up, Little Rock, and Guardian Cabbage; and Two Season Chinese Cabbage.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB