ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, February 13, 1994                   TAG: 9402130194
SECTION: HORIZON                    PAGE: F-6   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: By Ferne Saltzman
DATELINE: KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA                                LENGTH: Long


MAGNIFICENT MALAYSIA

There are certain elements absolutely indispensable for giving a fabulous party; sumptuous food, dazzling pageantry, exotic events catering to the interests of every guest, and a feeling of being welcomed with open arms. If those are the criteria, Malaysia's Tourism Promotion Board is throwing the perfect bash in 1994.

Certain to be one of the most diverse and fascinating celebrations being held anywhere, the festivities include exciting street parades bursting with color and dozens of cultural exhibitions. Festivals highlighting huge gaily painted paper kites, thundering massive drums (many over 200 years old), and 12" tops defying gravity for hours on end, will be featured. These activities, held almost daily during 1994's Visit Malaysia Year, plus many bargain travel packages, make this the best time to see the country.

Her location at the very heart of Asia (between Thailand to the north and Singapore to the south) has formed a polyglot history of Chinese, Indian and Malay culture spawning multiple celebrations. Even the New Year is celebrated four times annually. Everyone in this nation of approximately 15 million people celebrates it on January 1st, but each ethnic group also has its own traditions practiced in other months, such as the Chinese New Year, celebrated for two weeks in January, and the first month of the Muslim calendar, falling in July.

The country will be a montage of color, scent and sound during spectacular festivals held throughout the year in major cities. Here are some of Malaysia's exciting party venues and what's going on where.

KUALA LUMPUR: With a tumultuous 135-year history that includes disastrous floods and the Japanese occupation, Kuala Lumpur, the country's capital (a Federal Territory similar to our own District of Columbia), has emerged to become Malaysia's most developed city. A cosmopolitan melange, her sights include Indian temples, Moslem mosques and a railway station of marvelous Moorish architecture.

The Hindu festival of Thaipusam (the first week in Feb. at the full moon) is filled with religious fervor. Devotees pay homage to Lord Subramaniam in a spectacular procession with drum beating, chanting and brilliantly colored costumes. The procession ends in a 375-step climb to the Batu Caves on the outskirts of town, with followers piercing their skin and cheeks with needles as an act of faith. (The sight is not for the feint-of-heart, but is absolutely fascinating.)

National Day (Aug 27-31), is celebrated in Kuala Lumpur and throughout the country on the 37th Anniversary of the country's independence. Colorful parades, cultural performances and stage shows are some of the planned events.

Malaysia Fest (Sep 10-24) offers competitions, live entertainment, spontaneous parades and the best handicrafts, art and cuisine in the country, held at international hotels and various shopping centers throughout the city.

Shopping Carnival (Oct 16-30) is one week of heaven for the "shop till your feet are killing you" visitors, with exceptional bargains on tribal artifacts, antiques, handicrafts, and fascinating local art and just about anything else you could imagine. Participating are major shopping malls such as Jalan Bukit Bintang, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Ampang Park Shopping Complex and others.

PENANG: Called the "Pearl of the Orient" and once the hide-out of pirates, Penang is a charming mix of lazy rural town and trendy upbeat resort. Make time to ride the 2 1/2-mile funicular railway to the top of Penang Hill. At the end of the hot and crowded half-hour ride is a commanding view of the Penang Harbor. Trains run every 30 minutes beginning at 6:30 a.m. (Cost $1.50)

Combining this ride with a visit to Kek Lok Si Temple, the largest Buddhist Temple complex in Southeast Asia, rounds out a full morning tour. Half the fun of the climb up the steep sinuous path to the temple is wading through the bulging stalls on either side stuffed like a teenager's closet with rustling fabrics, clanking brass, jangling ornaments, and mysterious artifacts. Plan to make this excursion in the morning when it is cooler and when the sun is at the right angle for photographing the exquisite seven-story pagoda crowning the temple.

Another of Penang's treasures is the world's first live tropical butterfly exhibition at the Butterfly Farm. Wandering among 4,000 to 5,000 butterflies of 100 different exotic species, in a near-natural environment, you can experience dozens of fluttering specimens alighting on your hands and extraordinary close examination. The farm, located walking distance from the Penang Mutiara Beach Resort, is open 9-5 weekdays, 9-6 Sundays. (Cost $1.00)

The Malaysian Airlines International Dragon Boat Festival (May 29-Jun. 2) is a traditional dragon boat race featuring 40' boats gaily decorated in ancient designs of brilliant colors.

Another popular event is the Penang Festival, (Nov 1-30). Drawing about one million visitors a year, this annual extravaganza features a trade fair and exhibition, dragon boat races, giant flags, cultural shows, competitions and parades.

KUALA TERENGANNU: Kuala Terengannu on Malaysia's renown east coast, is famous for lovely stretches of pristine beaches and turquoise water. Nature herself has provided Kuala Terengannu's main attraction between May and August. Giant leatherback turtles come from as far as the Atlantic Ocean to lay their eggs here in one of the world's six breeding grounds. Visitors quietly observe the procession, as the leatherbacks parade from shore to nesting areas each evening.

KOTA BAHRU: Dubbed the cultural center of the country, Kota Bahru, Kelantan, is everything one comes to Malaysia to visit. She is a delightful city of color and dance where the ancient arts flourish. Every Wednesday and Saturday throughout the year at Gelanggang Seni (the Cultural Center) there will be demonstrations of kite flying, top spinning, and traditional arts and crafts.

If you love a noisy party, the Malaysian Games Festival (Feb.-Oct.) in this city should be on your itinerary, with booming traditional drum concerts, and demonstrations of giant top spinning and kite flying taking place every week. "Kertok" the unusual Malay musical instrument lends an air of gaiety.

Don't miss the International Kite Festival at Tumpat, Kelantan (May 29-June 2), which has no equal grace in the air. Unlike our gentle pastime, the Malaysian version of kite flying is definitely a sport for grown men. The "Wau Bulan" (Moon Kite) is usually made by the person flying it and surpasses him in height. Traditional Malay kites compete with hi-tech creations from around the world.

Percussion junkies will have a field day at the International Drum Festival (July 17-21). "Rebana Ubi" the massive drums of Kelantan, can weigh up to 250 pounds. Thrilling ground-quaking demonstrations will be held daily.

MALACCA: Founded in 1408 and known as the "Historical City" Malacca is crammed with monuments and remnants of the Portuguese, English and Dutch influences, leaving as their legacy a potpourri of styles. Portuguese descendants still cling to the past in a thriving settlement speaking a dialect used nowhere else in the world today - not even in Portugal.

Malacca Tourism Week heads the list of events the city will host (May 21-28). Processions, cultural events, food festivals at major hotels and traditional games and water sports will be part of the festivities.

At the Festival of San Pedro (Jun. 24-26) descendants of early Portuguese settlers celebrate the birthday of their patron saint of the Portuguese Fishing Community. Boats will be gaily decorated and the town will come alive with song, dance and feasting.

SABAH and SARAWAK: On Borneo, the island states of Sabah, whose main tourist draw is the world's largest orangutan sanctuary at Sepilok, and Sarawak, home of the once feared head- hunters, will be holding feasts and traditional celebrations.

Among them are the Sabah Fest (May 20-29) in Kota Kinabalu, showcasing Sabah's cultural heritage with food promotions, traditional dances and handicraft displays, and Kaamatan (May 30-31) held at end of rice harvest to offer thanks for a successful crop.

KUCHING: Sarawak's largest city, will host the Gawai Dayak Festival also celebrating a bountiful harvest. Visitors can gather with the Dayak and Bidayuh people, the indigenous tribes of the island, in their traditional longhouses for feasting, games, entertainment and a peek into the fascinating culture of these people. Many exotic events will add to the excitement. This is the proverbial "trip back in time," as these people still live the way they did hundreds of years ago.

No matter when you visit Malaysia in 1994 rest assured that the party will be in full swing.

For a complete listing of the dozens of scheduled festivals, a copy of "Calendar of Events" can be obtained from the Malaysian Tourist Information Center, 818 West 7th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90017, phone (213) 689-9702. They will also provide a booklet outlining many special package tours.

Malaysian Air Systems has daily service from Los Angeles to Kuala Lumpur. Low season fare (Jan. 16-May 31 and Sep. 1-Dec. 8) is $1120. High season fare (Jun. 1-Aug. 31 and Dec. 9-Jan.15) is $1227. MAS also offers special add-on fares from other cities to Los Angeles. Phone 1-800-421-8641.

Rail passes are available at a cost of $40 for a 10-day pass and $85 for unlimited travel for 30 days. There are stations in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Malacca, Kota Bahru and other cities.

For further information contact the Malaysian Tourist Development Corporation (213) 689-9702 or your travel agent.

Ferne Saltzman is a free-lance travel writer and photographer based in Northridge, Calif.



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