Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, February 20, 1994 TAG: 9402210345
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Snapdragons are old-fashioned flowers that are treated as annuals and planted outdoors in early May. Children can play with snapdragon blooms, pushing the "dragon jaws" open and allowing them to snap shut. For summer garden beauty or cut flowers, the most inexpensive way to use snapdragons is to start them from seed indoors now, since it takes about 10 to 12 weeks after seed sowing before the snaps can be planted outdoors.
Select a variety that will fit into your landscape before you purchase seed. Snapdragons may be classified by their flower form listed on the seed packet, which may be "traditional," "butterfly" or "double azalea flowered." The other classification criteria for snaps is the expected height, which would fall into one of three categories: dwarf, medium or tall. Dwarfs are only 6 to 15 inches high and tend to have a dense, bushy plant that produces numerous flower spikes. Medium types grow 15 to 30 inches tall. Tall snapdragon varieties will stretch from 30 to 48 inches, making them perfect for cut flowers.
To start snapdragons for May bedding plants, sow the seeds in a container filled with a dampened seed-starting soil mixture, available at garden centers and departments. The seeds need light to germinate, so place them on the top of the mix and gently press them to the surface. Do not cover with soil. As needed, water lightly by using a mister that creates a fine spray, or place the seeded pot in a container with a few inches of water for a half hour so that water will be absorbed through the hole(s) in the bottom of the pot.
Place the container in a plastic bag to maintain high humidity and set it in a spot with bright light. Feel for soil moisture frequently. The seeds will germinate in a week or two. The plastic bag should be removed at that time so the little seedlings don't rot or get overheated. Once the seedlings have developed true leaves, they can be transplanted into three-inch pots or peat pots.
I'll give more information on this National Garden Bureau flower of the year in a future column.
Q: We have been told that cutting the top growth out of white pines would allow the tree to thicken. Is this correct? If so, where and how should the cut be made? Also, when is the best month to cut? Once a white pine is cut, would the tree grow in height the following year? S.M.F., Bedford
A: The answer depends on how much you want to cut off the central shoot. Cutting off about half the length of the shoot - measuring shoot length from the upper whorl (ring) of side branches to the central shoot tip - will help make the pines denser, because the extent of top growth for the year will be reduced. However, if you want the trees to thicken, it will be necessary to clip all the growth. This is what Christmas-tree growers do when they shear their trees. Timing for white pine shaping should be after the new spring shoots have elongated but before they have turned woody (usually in late June around here). Make your top cut at a 45-degree angle just above where a cluster of needles is growing from the shoot.
If you take off a portion of the central shoot in late June, new buds will be promoted that will produce strong top growth, as well as upper side growth the following year.
However, if your question refers to cutting out the complete central shoot down to the uppermost whorl of side branches or to even a lower whorl, that drastic removal will not help the appearance or health of your white pines. If the reduced trees live, all the side branches in the top whorl will likely try to grow upward the next year, each competing with the others for dominance. The actual height growth, though, would not likely be very much. Also, that drastic topping would not allow the white pines to thicken.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. PLEASE DON'T SEND STAMPS, STAMPED ENVELOPES, SAMPLES OR PICTURES.\ Gardener's checklist
Jobs for late February:
Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous plants now.
To make old hay and manure weed-free for use in the garden, spread them on the soil in late winter, water well, and cover with black plastic. Weed seeds will sprout in a few days of warm weather, then will be killed by frost and lack of light.
Before working an area in the garden for early spring planting, check the soil. It should be dry enough to crumble in your hand before you begin.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB