ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SATURDAY, April 16, 1994                   TAG: 9404200128
SECTION: CURRENT                    PAGE: NRV-2   EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY  
SOURCE: By JOANNE ANDERSON STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: CHRISTIANSBURG                                LENGTH: Medium


HUNAN HOUSE LETS THE SUNSHINE IN

There are times when the unexpected is a welcome change.

At Hunan House in Christiansburg, the door opens into a contemporary-style dining area, illuminated with natural daylight from the front windows and gentle light from recessed ceiling fixtures. The walls, curtains and booth fabrics are pink, mauve and purple. The unusual color scheme works surprisingly to create a cheery atmosphere.

It's a nice deviation from dimly lit red and black of many Chinese restaurants.

"People often ask who our decorator is," said Ping Zhao, part owner with Teddy Yang of Roanoke. "Teddy's wife, Tracy Chen, and I picked the paint color, and wallpaper and fabric designs. I think pink and mauve are lighter and warmer than some colors."

Then there's the salad bar. "Most of our customers are American," said Zhao, who has worked at restaurants in China. "So we did it to satisfy the American customer." Fresh lettuce, peppers, onions, carrots, radishes, broccoli, fruit, shredded cheese and cherry tomatoes are complemented with sunflower seeds, bacon bits and crackers.

Yang said he's tried salad bars in other Chinese restaurants, but none has been as popular as the one at Hunan House.

Not counting the lunch menu or the 55 choices under appetizers, soup, desserts and American dishes, there are 90 Chinese dinner entrees. There are the ever-popular sweet and sour versions of fish, pork, shrimp and chicken, along with orange beef, lemon chicken and pineapple duck.

One of the more unusual entrees, at least by name, is "ant climb the tree," a pork and green bean thread stir fried with Chinese vegetables. And Zhao and Yang have not overlooked the American love affair with steak.

According to Zhao, one of the most popular dishes is the house steak, which comes sizzling on a hot plate with vegetables and special sauce.

"The sauteed chicken soong, minced chicken prepared in a special sauce and wrapped in lettuce, is also well-liked," she said.

Shredded chicken with bean sprouts, four color steamed vegetables, shrimp with Chinese vegetables and steamed flounder are designated "light special" and contain low added salt, cornstarch or oil "for customers with a selective healthy diet." A ginger, leeks, scallions and garlic blend is used for seasoning.

A third of the selections are marked as hot and spicy, but the spices can be altered for personal preference. The American-food-only-eater should not have trouble dining on rib-eye steak, fried shrimp, flounder fillet, beefburger, ham steak or other purely American choices.

If you order one of the 21 house specialties, another surprise comes your way - flowers, birds or animals meticulously carved out of carrots, radishes and turnips. It's a special little touch from Chef Ji-yant Chen, who recently relocated here from New York City.

Although your table is set American-style with forks and spoons, you can request chop sticks. Table knives are at the salad bar if you need one.

All entrees are served with steamed rice, and all meals close with the proverbial fortune cookies and orange slices. Everything on the menu can be packaged for take out.

Zhao came to the United States with her husband, Chen, from mainland China in 1985. They first lived in Blacksburg, then Texas, Lexington, Va., and, for the past two years, Blacksburg again.

Yang left Taiwan in 1976 and worked in several Southern states before opening a restaurant in Lexington. He sold that business and started the Mai Tai restaurant in Roanoke 21/2 years ago .

Zhao worked for a friend of Yang's in Houston, waitressing and managing a restaurant; then for Yang in Lexington. When she came to Blacksburg and wanted to open her own restaurant, she asked Yang to be her partner.

Their philosophy, which probably holds true for all restaurants, has been placed on the menu: "If you like our food, please tell your friends; if you don't like it, please tell us."

Hunan House\ 2100 Roanoke St.\ Christiansburg\ 382-8999\ Hours: Every day for lunch and dinner\ Drinks: Full bar\ Lunch: 3.75-5.45\ Dinner: $5.45-11.95\ Superlatives: Interesting decor, vast menu, presentation.



 by CNB