Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, June 26, 1994 TAG: 9406300015
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
In some cases, decay fungi on the surface of the wound will cause structural deterioration of the woody tissues beneath the wound. The resulting internal decay in the trunk can cause the wounded tree to break off at the stem or root collar, although the total tree loss might occur years after the initial injury.
The best cure for this tree problem is prevention. Because accidents can occur even when we're trying to be careful in mowing or power trimming, consider changing your landscape.
Remove turf around trees and replace with mulch or ground covers such as pachysandra that will grow with root competition and minimal care. Don't be tempted to solve the grass-trimming situation by installing an annual flower bed around tree trunks, particularly a raised bed. Frequent watering of the flowers, plus wet soil, against a tree trunk can cause tree root problems and lower trunk deterioration. Hand trimming the grass immediately around a tree trunk should prevent injuries caused by mechanical equipment.
Q: We were wondering how to propagate lilacs. Some colleagues would like to start some. Also, how do I tame down my overgrown lilac? P.C., Roanoke
A: If the lilac to be propagated has produced suckers off from the main plant and only a small number of new plants is desired, obtain new plants by digging out and cutting relatively small suckers from the parent plant during the dormant season. Dig the lilac sucker out rather than pull it. Retain part of the old root, although most new roots will arise from the base of the sucker. This method of propagation is referred to as ``division.'' For the year following division, keep the new lilacs in loose soil, either in containers of potting soil or in a well-worked garden spot, where they can be watered as needed and protected in case few or no roots formed with the sucker.
If you want several lilacs from your favorite plant(s), take cuttings from the ends of the stems in the spring just as soon as the new green shoots have reached a length of 4-6 inches. Trim those cuttings and remove all but two leaves from each, since they will be soft and very likely to wilt.
Lightly treat the base of each cutting with a root-promoting substance obtainable from a garden center before sticking each about 11/2 inches into a pot of dampened well-drained propagating medium, such as a mixture of half coarse sand or perlite and half sphagnum peat. Maintain humidity around the cuttings by placing a clear plastic bag held up by sticks or a bent coat hanger over the pot. Remove the plastic bag in order for the mix to dry somewhat if large water beads form on the inside of the plastic. Rooting should occur in about four to six weeks. The new plants should be treated for their first year as mentioned above for suckers that have been separated from the mother plant.
Tame your overgrown lilac through a two-part pruning, which should be done soon after the blooms have faded:
Thin out the lilac stems within the cluster by pruning out a few of the oldest ones; and reduce the height of the remaining stems. If your lilac is much taller than you would like and you don't want to miss any springs of flowering, phase the height reduction over two or three years so that no more than about one-fourth of the height is cut back per year.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
Reader feedback
Regarding your column of Masy 8 on beneficial nematodes: I get mine from: Gardens Alive, 5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg, Ind. 47025; (812) 537-8650.
Gardeners' checklist
Jobs for late May or early June:
nContinue plantings of warm-season vegetable crops, such as bush beans, summer squash and tomatoes. Use the space where one of the spring crops, like radishes, has been harvested. The continuous use of all the garden space for the full growing season allows the maximum output from a small garden.
nThe leaves of silver maple trees may develop red or green round warts at this time of year that look alarming, but are nothing to worry about. These fully growths are called maple bladder galls. They are caused by tiny mites irritating the young leaves as they first begin growth. Spraying is not necessary.
John Arbogast is the agricultural and natural resources extension agent for Roanoke.~
by CNB