ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, July 3, 1994                   TAG: 9407080021
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: D-1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: 
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium


SOME PROBLEMS BEST LEFT TO EXTENSION OFFICE

Q: What causes the spotting on red-tip photinias, and what can be used to cure the problem? - from Roanoke area; then from A.B.K. in Covington: Is there anything on the market you can get that will keep tomatoes from blighting?

A: I lumped these two letters together since they are good examples of problems that should be diagnosed from samples taken to the local Extension office. The term ``blight'' is used in a broad sense by some folks to mean death of something, while leaf spots can occur as a result of either adverse conditions or a disease. So the mention of those terms does not help produce a diagnosis with resulting recommendations. In Virginia, contact your local Extension office, listed with the local county or independent city phone listings, possibly under "V" for Virginia Cooperative Extension.

Q: When is the best time to trim boxwoods? - L.D.C., Pearisburg, and H.F.J., Roanoke; When is the best time to prune azaleas so they will be fuller? - M.K., Salem; When is the best time to cut back rhododendrons, and what is the procedure? - L.N., Roanoke.

A: The best time to prune boxwoods is in very early spring; for azaleas and rhododendrons, right after their spring flowers fade. General shrub pruning guidelines: prune at the recommended time for the shrub; don't expect shrubs to become fuller after moderate trimming since most new growth following pruning comes out just below the pruning cuts; make pruning cuts just above a leaf, bud or side shoot pointing in the direction where continued growth is desired; flowering shrubs that are cut back severely might not bloom the year following major size reduction; fast-growing leafy shrubs can have as much as two-thirds of the growth removed at one time, while leafy shrubs that grow at a slow pace, such as English boxwoods, can be reduced in increments of about one-fourth the size at a time, allowing one or more growing seasons between phases.

Q: Please share some advice about watering - should it be done, what hour of the day, how much? - M.P., Roanoke; along same line, from A.B., Fieldale: Does cold water pumped from river harm my plants?

A: These plants need watering: new trees, shrubs, lawns, sod (for at least the first year) and plants in general that must grow quickly and make flowers and/or some part to harvest within a relatively short time, such as one growing season. Morning is usually the best time to water; soak the soil; water slowly so that water can penetrate deeply; drip irrigation, seepage hoses or soaker hoses with holes pointing down save water. If plants are on a slope, water for a little while, stop, and then resume after first amount has had time to soak in. Don't kill plants by keeping them constantly wet; during hot droughts, soak new trees and shrubs once a week and lawns and shallow-rooted plants approximately twice a week. Cold river water applied in the morning should not hurt.

Q: I have several large mounds of pampas grass that do not appear to have survived the winter. Some, however, do have a few blades of green shooting up through the clump. What can I do to preserve these clumps? Should I consider the others with no green lost? Also, I have several azaleas that did not come out fully with leaves. What should I do? - S.P., Moneta

A: For the pampas grass: cut out dead parts from last year if you can without injuring the new blades. Scatter high-nitrogen fertilizer around the clumps and water deeply once a week during droughts. Clumps showing no green are likely lost.

Prune leafless parts of your azaleas and water weekly. Since leaves manufacture the food for any plant, leafless branches are useless and won't regain new life.

Q: I have a small garden in my back yard and have noticed mole activity there. Do you know the name of the plant that an old-time gardener told me that can be planted to keep moles away? Where can I purchase this plant or seed? W.S.

A: Castor bean plants are known to repel moles. They are attractive ornamental plants, but the seeds and leaves are poisonous to people, so use caution if children are around. Try seed stores.

Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column cannot reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. PLEASE DON'T SEND STAMPS, STAMPED ENVELOPES, SAMPLES OR PICTURES.



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