Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, July 10, 1994 TAG: 9407110208
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
A: I lumped these two letters together since these are good examples of problems that should be diagnosed from samples taken to the local Extension office. The term `blight` can be used in a very broad sense by some folks to mean death of something while leaf spots can occur as a result of either adverse conditions or a disease. So, the mention of those terms does not help produce a diagnosis with resulting recommendations. In Virginia, contact your local Extension office listed with the local county or independent city phone listings, possibly under `V` for Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Q: What is the best time to trim boxwoods? from L. D. C. in Pearisburg; time to prune azaleas so they will be fuller? from M. K., Salem; time to cut back rhododendrons and procedure? from L. N., Roanoke; another boxwood (English) timing and rule of thumb on how far they should be cut? from H. F. J., Roanoke
A: Best time to prune boxwoods is in very early spring. Best time for azaleas and rhododendrons is right after their spring flowers fade. General shrub pruning guidelines: prune at the recommended time for the shrub; don't expect shrubs to become fuller after moderate trimming since most new growth following pruning comes out just below the location of pruning cuts; make pruning cuts just above a leaf, bud, or side shoot pointing in the direction where continued growth is desired; flowering shrubs that are cut back severely might not bloom the year following major size reduction; fast growing leafy shrubs can have as much as two-thirds of the growth removed at one time while leafy shrubs that grow at a slow pace, such as English boxwoods, can be reduced in increments of about one fourth the size at a time allowing one or more growing seasons between phases.
Q: Please share some advice about watering - should it be done, what hour of the day, how much? from M. P., Roanoke; along same line, from A. B., Fieldale: does cold water pumped from river harm my plants?
A: These plants need watering: new trees, shrubs, lawns, and sod for at least the first year, and plants in general that must grow quickly and make flowers and/or some part to harvest within a relatively short time like one growing season; morning is usually the best time to water; soak the soil; water slowly so that water can penetrate deeply; drip irrigation, seepage hoses, or soaker hoses with holes pointing down save water; if plants are on slope, water for a little while, stop, and then resume after first amount has had time to soak in and not run off; don't kill plants by keeping them constantly wet; during hot droughts, soak new trees and shrubs once a week and lawns and shallow rooted plants approximately twice a week. Cold river water applied in the morning should not hurt.
Q: I have several large mounds of pampas grass which do not appear to have survived last winter. Some, however, do have a few blades of green shooting up through the clump. What can I do to preserve these clumps? Should I consider the others with no green lost? Also, I have several azaleas that did not come out fully with leaves. What should I do with these shrubs? Is there a possibility that the branches with no leaves will produce them next year?
S. P., Moneta
A: Do these things to preserve the pampas grass clumps with some green shoots: cut out dead parts from last year if you can do so without injuring the new blades; scatter high nitrogen fertilizer around those clumps now since this is still the time to do this for warm season grasses; and water deeply once a week during droughts.
Those pampas grass clumps showing no green by now in early summer are likely lost.
Prune out the leafless parts of your azaleas. Water weekly. Since leaves manufacture the food for any plant, those leafless azalea branches are useless now and can't be expected to come back from the dead next year.
Q: I have a small garden in my backyard and have noticed mole activity there. Do you know the name of the plant that an old time gardener told me that can be planted to keep moles away? Does this work? Where can I purchase this plant or seed?
W. S.
A: Castor bean plants are known to be repulsive to moles. They are attractive ornamental plants. However, the seeds and leaves of this plant are poisonous to people so use this idea with caution if children are around. Try seed stores.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Virginia 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. PLEASE DON'T SEND STAMPS, STAMPED ENVELOPES, SAMPLES, OR PICTURES.
Information given herein is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Virginia Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Virginia Cooperative Extension Service programs, activities, and employment opportunities are available to all people regardless of race, color, religion, sex, age, national origin, handicap, or political affiliation. An Equal Opportunity/Affirmative Action Employer.
by CNB